My RadCity Step-Thru 3 is new, just assembled on Friday. Saturday morning about 8AM, after charging for 12 hours, the bike turned on, but no PAS or throttle. Came back later that day, and everything normal. Rode it OK Sunday and Monday afternoons. Then, this morning (not left on charger) about 8AM, same thing. No PAS or throttle.
No error codes. Battery is nearly fully charged.
This morning, as a test, I lifted the rear and turned the throttle. The wheel started to turn and then stopped.
My first guess would be a loose connection. Any idea where exactly to look?
Another idea: The brake-activated motor cutoff switch. When I got the bike, the front brake was way too tight, and I adjusted it. Maybe the switch that disables power when the brakes are applied isn't releasing? Any idea where exactly that switch is?
There are a lot of posts around about two problems: (1) Bike won't turn on, or (2) no PAS but good throttle. My problem is neither of those.
Thanks!
The brake lever uses a hall sensor to determine motor cutoff and brake light. You can unplug or check for brake light illumination.
Thanks, DCH3416, but I'm unable to check out the brake lights because now the bike is operating normally.
This has now happened twice: No power (PAS or throttle) at 7 - 8 AM. Problem clears up a few hours later with bike just sitting. The first time it had just come off the charger, so I thought maybe the battery was hot, but today it had not been charged.
It's true that the garage is colder earlier, but it's a small range. Maybe 60 degrees F at 7 AM and maybe 70 a few hours later.
The theory I'm leaning toward is an out-of-adjustment brake. My front brake lever had very little travel, so I think it may have triggered the motor-cutoff/stop light while at rest. I loosened it. Next time this happens, I'll see if the brake light is on.
But if my theory is correct, with the brake looser, it may never happen again.
To make sure it's not the brakes, just disconnect the brake lever electrical connectors and see if the throttle and pas work. Not a good idea to ride it that way, but a good way to isolate the issue.
All of our Mini ST will occasionally do this, and I have learned to give both brake levers a quick apply and let them "snap" off. If I just pull and ease off the levers....still no power or PAS. The quick flick of the levers seems to be the answer. In fact, I have learned that it doesn't seem to matter which lever I flick!
It seems to occur most often on places on the mountain bike trail where I am standing on the pedals, downhill fast coast, with the brakes lightly applied. I ease off the brakes to begin climbing the next hill...and....no power!
A couple quick brake lever flicks, and everything is back.
Quote from: Radtothebone on September 03, 2021, 10:58:39 PM
To make sure it's not the brakes, just disconnect the brake lever electrical connectors and see if the throttle and pas work. Not a good idea to ride it that way, but a good way to isolate the issue.
Disconnected right and left electrical connections to brake levers, and problem persists. Also, when the problem occurs, the brake light is NOT on. So, probably not in the area of the brake levers.
The brake light should only come on when you're pulling the brake lever.
When this issue happens, does immediately turning your bike off and back on fix it?
Quote from: DCH3416 on September 24, 2021, 01:35:46 PM
The brake light should only come on when you're pulling the brake lever.
When this issue happens, does immediately turning your bike off and back on fix it?
No.
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Quote from: NeedSomePower on September 24, 2021, 03:21:23 PM
Quote from: DCH3416 on September 24, 2021, 01:35:46 PM
The brake light should only come on when you're pulling the brake lever.
When this issue happens, does immediately turning your bike off and back on fix it?
No.
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Only other thing that comes to mind. Unplug and plug the motor cable. Maybe that's slightly loose and it's causing intermittent faults. It would match why you're observing no throttle and PAS. Also the display does not error out for that condition as it would for if say a brake lever was stuck or other general electronic fault.
Quote from: DCH3416 on September 24, 2021, 04:18:01 PM
Quote from: NeedSomePower on September 24, 2021, 03:21:23 PM
Quote from: DCH3416 on September 24, 2021, 01:35:46 PM
The brake light should only come on when you're pulling the brake lever.
When this issue happens, does immediately turning your bike off and back on fix it?
No.
Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Only other thing that comes to mind. Unplug and plug the motor cable. Maybe that's slightly loose and it's causing intermittent faults. It would match why you're observing no throttle and PAS. Also the display does not error out for that condition as it would for if say a brake lever was stuck or other general electronic fault.
Thanks for this tip. Is it obvious where this connector is?
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Quote from: NeedSomePower on September 24, 2021, 04:40:03 PM
Quote from: DCH3416 on September 24, 2021, 04:18:01 PM
Only other thing that comes to mind. Unplug and plug the motor cable. Maybe that's slightly loose and it's causing intermittent faults. It would match why you're observing no throttle and PAS. Also the display does not error out for that condition as it would for if say a brake lever was stuck or other general electronic fault.
Thanks for this tip. Is it obvious where this connector is?
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Yeah it's the big connector on the back left hand side of the bike, the side with the brake rotor. Runs right next to brake line from the rear caliper. You might have to clip a zip tie to get some slack to unplug it.
Quote from: DCH3416 on September 24, 2021, 04:18:01 PM
Yeah it's the big connector on the back left hand side of the bike, the side with the brake rotor. Runs right next to brake line from the rear caliper. You might have to clip a zip tie to get some slack to unplug it.
With the bike on a stand, I was able to recreate the problem -- including spinning for a second before stopping -- by wiggling the connector. So, I gave it a good squeeze, which wasn't that easy. I used a big spring clamp to clamp one side to the frame, gripped the other side with pliers, and gave it a few taps so seat it.
Maybe this is the solution... I'll have to wait a few weeks to be sure.
Thanks again, DCH3416!
Brand new rad rover 6- the bike has 50 miles- one day of perfect operation, then the no throttle and no PAS problem.. The brake "flick" seems to be correcting the issue. My concern is that it seems to be happening every time I use the brakes?!.. Is there something behind this issue that can prevent it from happeneng in the first place>?
Quote from: netjamer on October 04, 2021, 06:25:10 AM
Brand new rad rover 6- the bike has 50 miles- one day of perfect operation, then the no throttle and no PAS problem.. The brake "flick" seems to be correcting the issue. My concern is that it seems to be happening every time I use the brakes?!.. Is there something behind this issue that can prevent it from happeneng in the first place>?
At first, I was convinced a too-tight front brake was the problem. One time when I had no motor, I loosened the brake cable and the motor came back. But, still, from time-to-time, I had no motor. Then I tightened the motor connector, and since then (about a week) the problem has not recurred, so I'm hoping that was it. This connector is much larger than the others and is on the left side of the bike, between the battery and the motor. (See photo.)
Can you explain what you mean by ?tightened the motor connector?. These look to simply snap or push together, so I am not clear what you are referring to when you say ?tighten?
I'm having the very same issue with my Rad Rover 6 plus currently. Brakes have been ruled put as I've replaced them with different ones that do not connect into the system. Only solution I've had so far is turning on the bike while pedalling or throttle but as soon as I stop it won't output power again.
Let me know if you found a solution! Rads solution is send me all the parts - which are out of stock.
Having the exact same issue with the Radcity Plus Step-thru I purchased in July with 17 miles on it. It ran perfectly until then and just stopped the next morning. Displays work and you can up/down the PAS levels. Zero power to hub motor with PAS or with throttle. No brake light on and no change if I pump the front/rear brakes with brake light working as normal to see if the motor cut-off is engaged.
Is anyone actually managed to get this problem fixed? I have had a new wiring harness installed and the problem persists. I have disconnected and reconnected the motor connected and the problem persist. My brakes are not stuck and I just don?t know where to go from here.
There is no way to tell if the brake sensor is bad unless you unplug it. Moving your brake levers won?t help much if the sensor is already bad. Unplug the wires coming off each brake lever. They will have red ends when you unplug them. Then test the bike.
If the problem still persists, then you more than likely have a controller issue. It will have to be replaced.
Thanks, this thread helped me out. I had tightened up the brake adjustment and then there was no power. Unplugging the brake electrical connectors fixed the problem so I knew it was the sensor. Loosened up the brake levers and I was good to go. Maybe design could be a little better but at least I know what's going on.
Thanks,
Frank
I have eliminated the brakes and controller on my Rad Rover 6 Plus. I have 2 of these and one just stops working and I tested it, not moving it, the day after it stopped and still nothing. Then the next day I turned it on and leaned it over on kick stand and hit the throttle and it worked. No error codes just no PAS or Throttle. I had replaced the PAS controller due to dim display and when it died I plugged in the DIM controller and bike still did not work. Any ideas? Anyone know how much the 750W motor cost? Also I have unplugged the brakes, the light and the PAS controller and still does not work. Everything lights up the way it should when turned on but no PAS or throttle and then after 2 days sitting it works. We can't trust it so we can't go riding together (wife and I, at 67 years old we really miss riding.
Quote from: Challenger 528 on August 18, 2024, 09:20:42 AMI have eliminated the brakes and controller on my Rad Rover 6 Plus. I have 2 of these and one just stops working and I tested it, not moving it, the day after it stopped and still nothing. Then the next day I turned it on and leaned it over on kick stand and hit the throttle and it worked. No error codes just no PAS or Throttle. I had replaced the PAS controller due to dim display and when it died I plugged in the DIM controller and bike still did not work. Any ideas? Anyone know how much the 750W motor cost? Also I have unplugged the brakes, the light and the PAS controller and still does not work. Everything lights up the way it should when turned on but no PAS or throttle and then after 2 days sitting it works. We can't trust it so we can't go riding together (wife and I, at 67 years old we really miss riding.
I believe it is your controller. Have you reached out to RAD for troubleshooting? Just because you have power from the controller doesn't mean it is working. I think it may be the brake circuit inside your controller. There are aftermarket controller upgrades you can buy. Just make sure you haven't upgraded your headlight. Area13 sometimes has them in stock. If not try electro world bike.
I had my previous controller with me that had a dim display but always worked. I unplugged the new replacement controller that was attached when the PAS and throttle stopped working and plugged in the old unit and it still did not work. Today I rode it a mile or so after sitting for 2 days and decided to work. The new PAS controller was plugged in. Problem is the bike can't be trusted. Don't want to be 25 miles from home and have it decide to not work. Bike is too heavy for me or my wife to ride that far without assist. From the forum it looks like RAD has a lot of issues. We love the bikes but now can't trust them. I have contacted them by phone and email. It takes weeks for them to respond if you don't happen to get them on the phone. I have not contacted them about this issue, bikes out of warranty and have 1000+ miles on them. Hoping the general public has the answer.
INOXA when you say its the controller do you mean the PAS on\off display on the left handle bar or something else. I have searched for a detailed wiring diagram showing all connections to the harness but only found very vague ones.
I have found that what was called by rad person the PAS controller is actually just a display and switch and does not control the motor. The motor controller is inside the bike frame behind the battery. Anyone know what it cost. INOXA told me about area 13 upgrade for RR6+ $229. Not sure I am ready to go there yet.
Quote from: Challenger 528 on August 18, 2024, 12:04:01 PMINOXA when you say its the controller do you mean the PAS on\off display on the left handle bar or something else. I have searched for a detailed wiring diagram showing all connections to the harness but only found very vague ones.
No I do mean the controller. With an upgraded controller you get one new screen that replaces the 2 you have. It will be color and is programmable unlike what you have now. Your model I don't know where it is located but mine is a box attached to the frame.
If a faulty or misadjusted brake handle switch kills the throttle and PAS, wouldn't it also show up as an Error 25 when you power it up?
See https://support.radpowerbikes.com/Maintenance_and_troubleshooting/Other_Error_Codes/Error_25_troubleshooting_guide