To anyone wondering why I let chains get in this condition. I was in a head on collision, other guy was texting and crossed the yellow line. Broken open compound fractures of tibia and fibula three separate areas, and a brain bleed. I have been out of it for 9 months. Meantime our bikes sat on a covered front porch since last November. The bikes were also covered with plastic and on top of that a 400 din thick bike cover. However outdoor moisture  still did a number on chains, front shocks, gear cassette, and brake rotors. My brain is now mostly healed, just personality changes that may be permanent such as anger, easily frustrated, and short term memory issues. Just now able to walk with out a walker or crutches and try to get my life back and bring our bikes back to life too! Controller not working on one bike either, front and rear lights just continually flash lol. Its all good, glad to be alive! 

I am replacing chains on two 2021 Rad Rover 6+. Support said use 120 link chains. HOWEVER when I took old ones off there were 124 links with no master link or quick connect??? SO IS this an update from Rad to use 4 fewer links for some reason like shifting, derailleur tension, incorrect info, or is it common knowledge that all chains have 4 or more extra links above the stated amount that you are expected to remove to adjust?

The replacement chains that I ordered (that stated were 120 links on website) ended up having way too many links lol. Will have to remove 8 links to be at original old chain link count. This new KMC chain that came in box saying Himiway 7 speed Z8.3 EPT does provide a reusable quick link. YEAH!

Thanks for any input to MR CONFUSED 

Quote from: handlebar on September 26, 2023, 07:37:06 PM
https://amzn.to/3T9jAvV

I think this might work. It has 120 links and has been certified against salt corrosion.

The bike came with KMC z7, which is the standard size for 6, 7, and 8 speeds. The rails on this chain seem to be of a thicker gauge steel. They call it KMC 6/7, which seems to mean it might be too wide for 8 speeds. They say it's fine for 7.

THANK YOU, I ORDERED TWO.  NEEDABREAK

Need to replace both of our radrover6+ chains. Rad is out of stock. All I can get from support is buy 120 links. Will not advise on best chain or why they say 120 links when all I can find for 7 speed ebike google search is 116 links. I also cannot find info about rust resist chains since we ride the beach a lot. Please give me your experience with different chains for this model bike. Also any info on best tools needed for removing links, master link etc

Quote from: needabreak on April 07, 2022, 06:32:04 PM
Hey guys. I followed the procedure show in one of the posts where you only cut a slit in blue plastic on the one end that has the 10 amp fuse. Unfortunately I cut just a hair two far to right with razor blade and cut into ribbon wire 1/8 inch. So although with the new fuse installed and the charger light now showing red instead of the previous green, and the charger itself heating up like normal, the battery is still cold after several hours of charging. It appears I cut 2 or 3 wires of ribbon necessary for circuitry to allow incoming charge to actually charge battery. There is also no response to pushing button on battery to see charge level. Any ideas on ribbon wire replacement or patching it? Thought I might scrap insulation back on both sides of the three cut ribbon wires and try to solder small wires across to bridge but will be difficult with such thin ribbon.

Quote from: BriainO on February 23, 2022, 07:03:01 AM
Thanks a million for sharing, @DickB.

I needed to register with this forum to view the photos... radpowerbikes.eu told me they would replace the battery, but due to changes in dangerous, or hazardous goods' regulations in January 2022, they have been unable to ship any batteries and it will still be around 2-3 weeks from now until they can possibly ship due to ironing out the bureaucracy between Customs and the their suppliers and manufacturers. At this time they are not advising customers to do the fuse fix themselves. I hope they may provide support on their help pages soon... additionally I encourage them to include the following warning in the manual: Don't poke the charge-port with your key!

Thankfully, it's an easy enough fix.

1. Remove the end cap was tapping the ends with a hammer and screwdriver. Don't lever with your carving knife, the tip will break off!

2. Remove the 4x torx #10 screws holding on the endcap.

3. Carefully make a slit in the thick plastic wrap.

4. Firmly grip the Red 10A fuse. It's a micro type and it's seated very firm.

5. Replace the fuse with another 10A micro-fuse.

6. Tape (or silicone) it up. I used electrical insulating tape and Duct tape over that.

7. Charge your battery as normal (I charge mine to 80-90% for longevity, unless I'm doing a big ride)

Hey guys. I followed the procedure show in one of the posts where you only cut a slit in blue plastic on the one end that has the 10 amp fuse. Unfortunately I cut just a hair two far to right with razor blade and cut into ribbon wire 1/8 inch. So although with the new fuse installed and the charger light now showing red instead of the previous green, and the charger itself heating up like normal, the battery is still cold after several hours of charging. It appears I cut 2 or 3 wires of ribbon necessary for circuitry to allow incoming charge to actually charge battery. There is also no response to pushing button on battery to see charge level. Any ideas on ribbon wire replacement or patching it? Thought I might scrap insulation back on both sides of the three cut ribbon wires and try to solder small wires across to bridge but will be difficult with such thin ribbon.

Once fuse was removed, definitely noticed a waxy material on top of fuse and on both of fuses's two blades, thick enough that you can actually scrape it off with fingernail.  Some sort of moisture protection? Was not sure if I should use some sort of car bulb contact grease or electrical contact protectant on new fuse?  Maybe just overkill?