Quote from: Gizmo on January 30, 2022, 06:08:26 AM
How come I did not get a Samsung or Panasonic battery on my rad 6+ as they advertise on there website, instead I received a DLG battery, when I called rad they tried to tell me that was the container Co for the battery total BS!

Have you opened it and looked at the individual cells? If they're the purplish-pink color they're most likely Samsung's . There's nothing outside the case that indicates which cells are inside that I'm aware of.

This is kind of a late reply , but may be helpful to someone eventually.  First off, I've been into just about every nook and cranny of my RR1 and I've come to the conclusion that Radpower put a lot of thought into their designs. Yes , there are lower cost parts in places, but in those places, it makes sense . They absolutely put quality and safety in places where it matters most. The battery is a good example. It's not over engineered, but it's designed to not go up in smoke the first curb you hop off of. The cells used are the Samsung 35E as mentioned before. I know a lot of people want faster charging. This cell is one of the best on the market IF you charge it slow. It'll last 1000+ charge cycles in the right conditions. .2C is your best bet if you want it to last as long as possible. That's about 3 amps . The upper limit I would go would be 6amps . Some very thorough testing shows this battery will be "shot " quick if charging above .5C or 6.8 Amps.

Quote from: waerola on May 15, 2021, 05:37:26 PM
My wife got a Rad Runner because it's a good fit.  We were trying out some dirt trails and she found the bike was getting high-centered on rocks and roots. 

After looking it over, I concluded she could add 4" additional clearance by removing the existing kick stand.  However, a replacement center mount kickstand behind the bottom bracket has to have sufficient "spread" to go around the tire.  One that mounts on the wheel nut might add too much stress on the shaft and a mount on the chain stay has to be threaded through cables and an irregular tube shape.

Has anyone found a replacement?

I used a Portland Design Works - Power Stance center mount design to replace that big contraption .  Because of the boxed in mounting surface on the bottom of the chainstays, it requires using either a 3/16 -1/4" thick plate , basically equal in dimensions to the existing plate welded on this kickstand , or enough flat washers (3 in my case) to shim it above the truss like plates (if someone knows the more correct term for these please correct me) that are factory welded on the bike to stabilize the stock kickstand. This is necessary to turn the new kickstand just a few degrees to clear the 3.3" tire that comes on the bike when folded up. It sounds like a big hassle, but it's a pretty easy fix to make this work and the length of this kickstand in the shortest setting is just right for the RR1 and it's strong enough to handle the weight of the bike.

Quote from: Sirch on December 23, 2021, 08:18:33 AM
I've looked into mounting a second battery under the passenger seat myself but this limits the size/Ah of the new battery but the only other option is the front downtube or in my center console. Does anyone have pics of either of these areas having a battery mounted?

I made a 14s5p battery out of NESE modules -  https://18650.lt/ - using Samsung 50E cells . They just barely fit under the seat in a battery bag ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/174530582367?hash=item28a2d5575f:g:qecAAOSwP-Jfm~G3     .

One note is , using this configuration, fitting a BMS module is very tough , as the battery is hard enough to wiggle under there as it is. I elected to go without a BMS and monitor it myself , so this route is not for everybody. I have 25ah of capacity and 58.4 volts fully charged .

I had a bent skewer on the front of my Radrunner due to the truck driver jumping railroad tracks during shipping or they(Fed Ex if I remember correctly) launched it into the truck with a catapult, not quite sure, but Radpower customer service gave me an allowance to go purchase a replacement at a LBS that FAR exceeded the value of the original part . I actually ended up buying a much cheaper replacement than I could have , just because that's how I roll when someone does their best to take care of my problem. I emailed the invoice and had a credit issued to my CC within 3 days. 100% happy with their response time and handling of the warranty. I've not had a single hint of a problem in the 6 months I've had it so far and I ride about 20 miles per day on average.

 I believe the fender mounts just like it does on the Radrunner Plus, which is on the very bottom of the lowers and it's drilled for the top mount (of the fender) as well. Also  , I think Radpower's explanation of why they won't offer the RR+fork separately for the older RR1 customers is a bunch of bull. How in the world is the tire going to hit the frame? It's not like they HAVE to sell us anything, but for people that bought one before the RR+ was available; it'd be nice to have that upgrade. https://www.biktrix.com/products/rst-guide-fork

Quote from: Bob Mc on October 05, 2020, 08:31:07 PM
Howdy, I just installed the Bolton forks also. I used 1/2 inch brass spacers. So far the brakes work well. The forks are fantastic, compare a Jeep to a limo on a washboard gravel road. The fender struts required a lot of bending to fit to the fork holes.

Do you have any other pics of your installation? A bit further away to show the overall front end profile?

Quote from: wkindred on October 07, 2020, 10:44:55 AM

Quote from: dan26ntn on October 06, 2020, 09:41:48 PM
I've been looking around for a bit , trying to pin down a well made suspension fork for the RadRunner , and I did see the Bolton fork, but there is also an RST Guide 20 . Is there a reason that one wouldn't fit? I believe Bitrix sells them at around $250 USD  and https://classic-cycle.com/all/3064/204-suspension-fork-rst-guide-20-zoll-tnl-fatbike-1-1/8-ahead-for-disc-brake  . I don't know enough about the different details to know if it would be a better quality and fit than Boltons option.

hmmmm...specs make it appear to be a good and viable option -

Steerer length: 260 mm

Steerer diameter / stem width: 28,6 mm

Steerer daiemeter at cone seat: 30 mm

Installation hight: 420 mm

For Hub width: 135 mm

Travel: 45 mm

Ssytem: Coil in left stanchion

Damping: Oil in right stanchion

When they say, "installation height" ; is that referring to the crown to axle measurement that Bolton states on theirs? If so, the RST looks to be a bit shorter, which may solve that kickstand and short people problem .

I've been looking around for a bit , trying to pin down a well made suspension fork for the RadRunner , and I did see the Bolton fork, but there is also an RST Guide 20 . Is there a reason that one wouldn't fit? I believe Bitrix sells them at around $250 USD  and https://classic-cycle.com/all/3064/204-suspension-fork-rst-guide-20-zoll-tnl-fatbike-1-1/8-ahead-for-disc-brake  . I don't know enough about the different details to know if it would be a better quality and fit than Boltons option.