So this *still* hasn't been addressed by RadPower? I have 3500 miles on my RadCity 5+. I do love the bike, but the dimness of the PAS display is terrible. It is pathetic that they have not addressed this problem.

Quote from: Slowrider on March 31, 2022, 12:13:17 AM

Quote from: MatthewK on March 07, 2022, 11:41:58 AM
Video you linked isn't for the 5 plus. There was a video out there but it has been taken down. I did it to mine and it works, however I don't recall how to do it so I stuck with the 25mph setting, I guess there are worse things . If anyone does recall how to, please post up. I would like to know how to switch it back to factory setting just because. Thanks

Sorry I posted the wrong video... You can only increase the speed to 25 MPH from 20 MPH so if you're asking about going above 25 MPH that's a power limitation of the controller (I think) so not possible with the stock setup.

Here's how to do it

Press the assist down arrow and the light button till you get to program mode.  It will flash a P.

Then hold assist up, assist down and the light button until the screen switches from there you can edit the top speed.  It's in KMH so I think goes to 40 KMH (About 25 MPH).  I did not change it on mine to test but I have no reason to think the setting won't work.


I'm going to add a WARNING... Even the 5 MPH speed increase significantly increases your chance of serious injury or worse in a crash.  Every 10 MPH the impact force in a crash doubles so if you do this be aware of the risks.  I won't do this because I know I would crash and 20 MPH is plenty fast for me.  You have to decide what works for you though.

This worked for me.

I only use the higher speed on the two miles of city artery where I am traveling in a close shoulder-style bike lane. I feel the higher speed decreases the speed dfifferential between me and the traffic going 40MPH, and thus it increases safety in that specific situation. Once I get off that section of road (A1A in Florida) I drop pedal assist to 1 or 2 and don't go above 18.

My RadRunner just had PAS problems at 2000 miles. I probably caused them by taking off the crank and over-torquing.

My symptoms were that the pedal assist would cut out and I would get 000 watts displayed quite frequently. I could change the PAS level and get some response, or gear down and get some response, but it was balky. I could disassemble/reassemble and get 15-20 miles of it working, then it would die again.

I ordered a new sensor and Rad may eventually ship it. But placing the order let me be a bit more free and radical with my attempted fixes, and I did get it working reliably again by disassembling and scraping off the clear plastic which I had cracked. I've put over 150 miles on it now with flawless performance, so it seems it is working.

Next time I do it I might remember, but that won't be for a month.

It's pretty simple -- you just slide the wheelholders all the way to the passenger side and use the bottom hook It clamps on right by the battery mount.

28" is the correct setting, the one closest to actual. If you set it to 26", you'll register 7% less mileage than you actually travel.

It was set to 26" by the guy who built the bike, and that was wrong.  When I got to a thousand miles I figured out why Google Maps and my odometer were always in disagreement, and set it to 28". Now it's within 1%.

It is now not acceptable. A week ago I got the email that the part had been ordered. They banged my credit card and took the money, but 7 days later -- no shipment. (I did check my credit card account and they indeed took the money on July 19.)

It is not cool to take someone's money and not ship. If you do too much of that, Visa/MC will have big problems with you.

UPDATE: They claim that these delays are due to the shipping company. Sounds like they need to find a different shipping company...

Rad just received a $150,000,000 infusion of capital to finance their business growth.

I have the KAC Overdrive K2. One RadRunner fits without having to buy the adapter bar, but the second one needs the bar. I've transported the bikes1900 miles and have had good luck.

Sent a fully-documented query on a Wednesday, heard back on a Monday. It took three (or more) days to ship the part I needed after that, so it ends up being 8 days until the shipment.

Not stellar, not good, just acceptable. I do understand they are slammed. Perhaps that $150 million will have funded a few support reps, and they can get them rolling soon.

Thank you! If I can figure out how to get some third party to print me one, I'm going to grab it!

Maybe this isn't true for all Rad bikes, but both my RadRunner and RadRover had mounting holes that fit water bottles you buy for $7 at Walmart.

https://amzn.to/3vHzkb3

Just purchased this one and used it for putting a new gearbox on a RadRunner. When I get back south, I am looking forward to using it with my RadRover. Would have made replacing the rear tire a lot more pleasant. Also, I need to adjust the derailleur and was putting it off because I wasn't sure how to get it spinning free. This will make it easy.

I suspect that if you are going to have one for constant use, it might be better to have one that is a bit more heavy-duty. But I put the RadRunner up on it four times in the process of putting on my gearbox, and it worked great.

Quote from: RunninRad on May 29, 2021, 09:09:33 PM
found this mirror that attaches to your arm instead of the bike. not sure if anyone's tried it out but it does look interesting...

https://www.rviactive.com/collections/rearviz-mirrors

I've been using this mirror for over a year:

https://amzn.to/3g76xGq

Takes a little getting used to, but works great for me. I leave it attached to my previous pair of glasses and keep it by my bike, as I am out every day. It is not difficult to attach and adjust once you get used to it, but it is really convenient when you keep it attached to  a pair of glasses.

I was able to get the pedal assist going. It didn't seem to fit the crank properly, but after a second try it slid on.

The shifter worked out too after I moved the mode switch for my LCD display to the right handlebar. I do like the rapidfire shifter approach, and the gearbox shifts reliably now.

All in all this was a great move. I had big problems with the single speed not giving me the type of exercise I wanted. Instead of the 38T chainring, I put the 46T on. That gives me 46 -- slightly easier than the default RadRunner 53 -- and a 66 for my second gear. Then when I shift to 3rd, it is 82T which gives me a good workout and gets me going at 15-20 MPH on PAS 2 depending on the wind and incline.

I am a flat-ground rider, since I am either in Illinois or Florida. If you have hills to deal with, I am sure the 38T would make more sense. For me, 46T works real well at PAS0 when riding in areas where I want to go slow, and th 66T works well for PAS1 or 2 on slight hills or against the wind. I can move to 82T when I am going down a slight incline or have the wind at my back. I just did a 33 mile ride today and made it back with 2 bars left on the battery.

Shout-out to Efneo and Wiktor for support. They were responsive and on target at all times. I love the GTRO. I spend time in Poland periodically, and plan on stopping by to see them and give feedback.

I installed it and the gearing worked great. I had two problems.

One, I have the rapid-fire shifter on my RadRover, so I picked that type for the Efneo. Wrong move, should have gone with the grip shifter, as the rapid-fire is too large and doesn't integrate well on the left side with the brake handle (the bell causes problems too).

The other problem -- the pedal assist no longer works. I suspect the sensor doesn't fit the left crank properly, and I am going to have to figure out how to get that attached. I might end up going to a local bike shop if I can find one that will rescue do-it-yourself things gone wrong.