Hello, Rad Owners Forum—I'm forever in y'all's debt and this is only my first post. Really benefitted from all the smarts here as I got serious about my first e-bike purchase this year. Hopeful you might be able to steer a little of that savvy my way to help me understand how to solve this particular challenge I'm having with my recently upgraded Rad Runner +.
Long story short, I implemented the 32a controller (via Electro Bike World: https://electrobikeworld.com/products/35a-controller-rad) and the matching display (https://electrobikeworld.com/products/kt-lcd8h-color-for-rad), and after initial concern about downtube connector pins getting compromised, have it working regularly. I've modified the settings a few times due to the problem I'll describe below, alternating between the guidance from Bolton (https://boltonebikes.reamaze.com/kb/radpower-upgrades/how-do-i-program-my-radpower-upgrade and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0F6x8V0NZQ), from YouTuber SuPRCooPR (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_NEXdUCOiY), and most recently from Sideburn Studios (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTRs7c9Kc7U), paying especially close attention to C5 and C14 attributes that I thought may be the path to solving my recurring battery issue.
The issue is that the battery cuts out regularly on hills, where anywhere between P3-P5 when exceeding 4770 watts of motor power (MOTOR W in the display)—typically a hill climb for me—the battery abruptly shuts off all power to the bike and will not recover without a charge.
What am I overlooking in my controller settings that can curb this issue?
I'm aware that what I'm probably experiencing is that the engine is no underpowered compared to the controller, and the battery's BMS is stepping in to present a bigger problem.
I didn't modify the Rad Runner Plus lightly. My issue is I live in a hilly terrain, rife with (according to Hill Attack app) 126% hills and lengthy rises, and have been trying to get my bike into commute-worthy shape for the hills it'll need to tackle. Right now, I can probably barely pull that off, staying close to the lower gears, but I'm being careful and meanwhile know that I don't have a safeguard in place to stop the Battery Management System from cutting off the bike's power at any given moment. (Incidentally, while the battery ceases to function, it only requires an hour or less of charging after a full charge and experiencing such a cut-out. I'm also concerned this is 'training' the battery poorly or potentially doing damage to it as I try to get to a better resolution.)
Long story short, I implemented the 32a controller (via Electro Bike World: https://electrobikeworld.com/products/35a-controller-rad) and the matching display (https://electrobikeworld.com/products/kt-lcd8h-color-for-rad), and after initial concern about downtube connector pins getting compromised, have it working regularly. I've modified the settings a few times due to the problem I'll describe below, alternating between the guidance from Bolton (https://boltonebikes.reamaze.com/kb/radpower-upgrades/how-do-i-program-my-radpower-upgrade and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0F6x8V0NZQ), from YouTuber SuPRCooPR (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_NEXdUCOiY), and most recently from Sideburn Studios (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTRs7c9Kc7U), paying especially close attention to C5 and C14 attributes that I thought may be the path to solving my recurring battery issue.
The issue is that the battery cuts out regularly on hills, where anywhere between P3-P5 when exceeding 4770 watts of motor power (MOTOR W in the display)—typically a hill climb for me—the battery abruptly shuts off all power to the bike and will not recover without a charge.
What am I overlooking in my controller settings that can curb this issue?
I'm aware that what I'm probably experiencing is that the engine is no underpowered compared to the controller, and the battery's BMS is stepping in to present a bigger problem.
I didn't modify the Rad Runner Plus lightly. My issue is I live in a hilly terrain, rife with (according to Hill Attack app) 126% hills and lengthy rises, and have been trying to get my bike into commute-worthy shape for the hills it'll need to tackle. Right now, I can probably barely pull that off, staying close to the lower gears, but I'm being careful and meanwhile know that I don't have a safeguard in place to stop the Battery Management System from cutting off the bike's power at any given moment. (Incidentally, while the battery ceases to function, it only requires an hour or less of charging after a full charge and experiencing such a cut-out. I'm also concerned this is 'training' the battery poorly or potentially doing damage to it as I try to get to a better resolution.)
