There are dust seals over the bearings. I have found multiple instances of the dust seal rubbing on the metal while spinning due to the rubber being dry.

Pry the rubber cover up a little and push grease into the bearing. Then make sure the rubber cover has a thin layer of grease all the way around on the underside.

Are you talking about the wheel skewer? If so, Amazon has many different sizes available. Just measure the length on your current skewer and order the same size.

Disconnecting the brake sensor wires won?t have an effect. If they were faulty, there would be no power to the motor via PAS or throttle.

As suggested, you need to plug in a different brake light to see if that?s the cause. If not, the next step would be to inspect the brake wire leading from the controller to the brake light. Often, the wire is damaged, typically where it runs under the rear fender. Something could have gotten sucked in between the tire and the fender, damaging the wire.

Remove the rear wheel and inspect the wire closely for damage. If you have no luck there, remove the tail light and plug it into the controller directly, bypassing the extension wire.

If none of that is the issue, then more than likely it?s a controller issue. It?s probably not worth replacing the controller. But there are times when it may start with the rear brake light, but maybe down the road you lose pedal assist or something else. Things could start snowballing in the controller.

If you are able to find a replacement, be sure you remove the ball bearing and spring first. If you remove that silver circle first, the spring and ball bearing will shoot across the room, never to be found again.

To remove the spring and ball bearing, look on the side of that silver disk and you will see a very small allen head. Gently unscrew it and remove the spring and ball bearing. Then you can remove the silver disk.

The spring and ball bearing gives you the clicking feeling when you turn that silver disk. It also puts pressure on the silver disk so it doesn?t vibrate and turn while riding.

I have no doubt the Mission battery propelled your bike. What you don?t realize is the mission battery will kill the electronics in your bike. Why risk the controller and motor by testing it out?

Replacement Rad batteries are expensive, but they are worth every penny. They are made by Panasonic and if cared for properly, should last 5 or 6 years.

Constantly leaving it on the charger well after the light goes green on the charger will kill the battery in a year or two.

Just buy a new display from Rad. They are around $100. If they don?t have your display in stock, purchase one for the Rad Wagon and change the wheel size in the programming mode.

To check your current wheel size, press the top and bottom buttons at the same time on your handlebar switch. The wheel size will flash on the screen. When your new display arrives, go into programming mode and change the wheel size to what?s found on your old display.

If the wagon display is out of stock, buy a City 3 or 4, or a Rover 5 display. They are all the same, just different wheel sizes programmed in from the factory.

City 5+ and Rover 6+ controllers should never be installed with their installation screws. Buy a Rad controller and don?t use the two screws bolting it to the frame. You should have no more issues after that.

For those that have one of those models and haven?t had a controller issue yet, do yourself a favor and remove those screws.

It?s a known issue on Rad bikes with the batteries that allow you to switch them off with a key.

If you turn the bike off at the battery instead of the handlebar switch, you run the risk of the display resetting. It doesn?t happen all the time, but it will happen eventually. For some, it happens quite often.

Turn the bike off at the handlebar switch and you will never have the issue.

There is no way to tell if the brake sensor is bad unless you unplug it. Moving your brake levers won?t help much if the sensor is already bad. Unplug the wires coming off each brake lever. They will have red ends when you unplug them. Then test the bike.

If the problem still persists, then you more than likely have a controller issue. It will have to be replaced.

I have never heard of one of those motors failing. I?m sure it has happened, but it?s a very rare occurrence.

Are you sure it?s not a controller issue? A bad controller can do exactly what you are describing.

If you can find another City 5+ bike in your area, mate it with your bike to see what happens. Put the bikes side by side and plug their motor power wire coming off their controller to your motor. If it powers your motor just fine, then you know you have a bad controller.

The battery trays seldom go bad, but it isn?t out of the question. I would reach out to someone in your area with a Rad bike and see if their battery will power your bike on. At the same time, see if your new display works on their bike.

Check your connections again. When you installed the new controller, it?s possible you didn?t seat the connections properly on the wires coming out of the controller. You may think they are seated well, but maybe they aren?t.

Unplug the two brake shutoff sensors leading off of each brake lever assembly. Unplug the headlight, taillight, throttle and pedal assist sensor. Any one of those shorting out could cause the bike not to turn on. Also unplug the motor wire to see if that helps. If you are able to get the screen to power on, connect the motor wire and throttle to see if you can power the motor. If so, then connect the other components one by one until you find the one that is shutting the bike off.

In rare cases, a bad pedal assist sensor can fry the controller. It?s best to automatically replace the PAS when you replace a controller. It?s cheap insurance. Nothing worse than blowing a second controller due to a faulty PAS.

You first mentioned that it was a Rover and then said it was a City 5. Which model is it?

Parts for those motors are semi propriety. It may be hard, if not impossible to find the parts. And if you do, the quality may not be great.

Those bikes are selling for around $2,000. Why not just purchase a new rear wheel for around $500? It would be well worth it!

My understanding is the Rovers all had the same wheels through the Rover 5 model. So you may check to see if they have the Rover 5 (2020) model in stock.

I?m assuming you mean the front wheel. If your rear rim is bent, you can buy a front wheel and use that rim on the back. Rad does not sell just rims, they sell the entire wheel assembly including tire and tube.

Warranty starts on your purchase date. Rad is pretty open to honoring a warranty if it?s just a few days after it expired.

You have a one year warranty no matter when you buy the bike. If you buy it next spring, you will still lose riding time next winter. It?s kind of irrelevant when you purchase the bike. Now if they only offered a six month warranty, then by all means buy the bike in the spring. But that is not the case.

The Rad Fat Tire lock bolts right to the frame on the Rover 6+. Be sure to get the optional chain with it.

The lock bolts up to the back wheel.