Hi and Thanks. I am not sure about the rad Rover, I don't see why not, the upgrade parts have all the connections that Rad uses. It was so easy to swap over and it really goes. I have dialed it back a bit because my initial take off with throttle only from a dead stop was almost popping a wheelee, not enough weight up front to keep the front tire down with the tork a 35 amp controller puts to the motor. I was leaning way over the front bars to take off super fast and not pop up but I don't really need to do that as I don't mix with traffic and stay to the bike paths.
Good luck with your Rad, even stock it will be a fun ride!

The Bell Soquel helmet has MIPS and runs around $50, it's not a bad fit for summer and winter. With the twisty knob in the back for adjustment I was able to wear a double thick thinsulate hat.

Maybe if you are handy you could use some Kyvex and mold/shape your own? It is a thermomorphic plastic type stuff and it is easy to fabricate with. Also the black PVC pipe (or white) can be shaped and manipulated in a similar way. I use a heat gun or off the boil water for the Kyvex type stuff and a brazing torch for the plastic pipe. Both can be cut, shaped, molded and then cold water plunged to set.

Thanks! I have been taking screen pictures, this is much better.
So I set my wheel size back to 23" and then the 100 to 103. 20/100 gave incorrect speed by more than 2 mph, 23/103 seems to be a sweet spot.
Thanks again.

All I had to do was make the 1 hole on the new controllers tab an oval....just a tiny bit, I did no modification to the bikes stock kick plate, it fits right on. It is long enuff for the new controller but not wide enuff. You will see just what I mean when your goodies arrive I used a tiny round hobby file, super easy to do.
I am going to check out that tape for the holes and seems, thanks for the tip Ray. My plastidip days are a good few months away since I have to spray outdoors. Who knows when, might hit 70°f here mid week. But tape or spray I think I will not cover the entire controller, I am not sure about the overheat situations in the 35amp controller either but the controllers case is much thinner than stock Rad so heat dissipation is probably not the same at all and it for sure puts out more amps so heat just might be a thing in the hotter seasons.

Your welcome, it's cold here too off and on, I built mine in the kitchen hopefully these picture posts, here is the controller installed.

controller screen shots

Here are the control screen pictures and settings I am trying out right now. Having a time getting them to upload, I keep trying. I forgot to snap the underbelly picture, I get distracted with the riding part  I'll get a shot of the controller box when I go biking today. Yesterday was a beautiful day here, 38°f and sunny. Our snow was maybe an inch and it's almost gone, the knobby tires work great in the slush. I had no functional problems with the slush and spray but I am thinking I may plastidip the seams on the controller just to be super extra double sure it's resistant to the splashing.today we get 50's!

Wheel size, yep...I started at 23 and then set the p1 to 103 and that got the closest to correct mph so far, I used a gps speedometer app to check it. Yesterday I  changed wheel size to 20 and the the other setting at 100 to see how that works. Honestly once I hit 20mph everything just feels fast fast fast. I also set c4 to 3 so I could have throttle in pas0. This is a sweet upgrade, it's fun to try stuff out and it can always be reset to default if I get out of hand with it all.

For sure a great mod for the RR! Bolton was out when I was ready EBW is the same unit I think, just no Bolton splash screen. The install was super easy. I think I spent more time deciding which way to face the cables since they only come out 1 end of the controller. I put it in with cables to the front, this makes the cable to the motor just reach the hub motor cable with just the right length, it just fits and the connector are cable tied on each respective end. I was able to gently ease the main control cable out of the frame, be so careful or you will have to fish out the cable if it disconnects up in there. The skid plate and stand offs fit just fine, plate is not wide enuff for full coverage but it is long unuff  The only thing I had to do was elongate the hole on the mounting tab on the cable end of the new controller. These mounting tabs are flimsy but it doesn't matter because the plate and stand offs sinch it all up nice and tight. I had 0 problems  with the install and it was the first thing I did after unpacking and checking for all parts accounted for. I put the bike upsidedown, no handle bars on yet and it was easy. I took my time and worked slowly. It is truly plug and go. I also did the initial rear derailleur adjustments while it was flipped over as well as the rear break adjustment.  I will snap some pictures for you.
As far as the setting go, for sure I can share. I will snap a picture of that screen for you as well. I figured out on my first ride that having the 35amp controller set on haul a** settings eats the battery super fast, it's fun but I think I only went about 20 miles(not sure, to EXCITED for first ride and didn't keep track)mostly throttle only at all out speed, it was fantastic! I died a block from home and pumped back in first gear, doable but for me not for long, bad knees. So I changed the c setting that controls how much total output from the battery from 10, which is 100%, to 8 for 80%. I also messed around with the PAS settings in c14. So far I really like it all, I find that I use the gears and PAS settings much like I ride  motorbikes, maybe just habit but the RR+ drive tran seems sturdy enuff to handle all the shifting and the controller has not balked at anything I have done yet. I will post up those pictures later today. We got first snow last night and I am heading out to ride.

 Hi, I am in Iowa. I ordered the plus on Sept.29th  and it was delivered on Dec.2nd. the box was torn apart, huge rips and holes...my heart sank. The delivery driver was even shocked, or said he was...but under the carnage was a beautiful new ebike, not 1 scratch and no missing goodies, whew!
I upgraded the controller to 35amp model from EBW, also a new LCD to go with it, really nice color display that is easy to understand and program. I also put the center console from Rad and an old swing arm bag from my motorcycle. The console is raised up, the bottom hole in the console is in the top hole on the frame, I drilled a third lower hole in the console, yes those are tennis balls under the console, perfect fit and stable. I have a different long seat to put on yet, it will snug up to the console, and also a side mirror.
I am not so hip on silver color so I might plastidip it the pearlized metalic graphite color when I put a new set of sprockets to the rear wheel after the chain is broken in and cleaned up for a wax job. I also have a fatty 20"x4" tire for the rear.
  So far it is fantastic! I have tried different settings and I am getting it dialed in slowly but surely. Still getting the rear derailleur just right, the breaks also needed initial adjustment, all to be expected on a new self assembled bike. It makes it up to speed fast and I can go 30mph on flats in 7th on PAS5. I haven't tried throttle only distance test, I like to peddle and keep forgetting to just use throttle for the distance test. After the initial three 12 hour charges I have used the voltage to estamate a charge time to hit 80%. It's been easy to charge just a couple hours after a ride and hit that 80%, each time my voltage after a ride is around 20 to 25%. So far everything is great. Here are some pictures. I ride year round.
Go RadRiders!