After thinking about it, getting 5000w to the motor is pretty much impossible, it would blow the 40a fuse recessed in the battery housing instantly. If that somehow didn't happen 5000w would likely fry everything between the battery and the motor including the controller. 5000w going through that system even for a second or two should give off a strong burnt electronics smell even if you didn't see any smoke.
Is it possible you're not reading the display properly? and it's really reading 500w not 5000w? If so, I would fully charge the battery since a drained battery could cause the controller to cut power to the motor to protect the battery. Check that C14 is set to 4, a lower setting could damage the battery and a higher setting can cause it to cut power to the motor prematurely. Then I would reset the controller to it's defaults and reprogram all the settings. If that didn't do anything I would go through the process described below (assuming a loose connection was the problem).
Assuming the controller isn't faulty that would circle me back to the wiring either being connected wrong or not tight. If the connector between the battery and the controller was loose and arcing there
would be wild fluctuations in the power readings and the motor would cut off and on (but logically so should the display but maybe not).
Flip the bike upside down and take the controller off, inspect all the connections and clean them with canned electronics cleaner and/or compressed air. Then put the stock controller back in making sure all connections are correct and tight (the connectors have arrows that line up, work in a well lit area so you can see them clearly, use a flashlight if you need to), then do a test run around the block. If everything worked as it should then reinstall the 35a controller, reset the display settings to default then reprogram it with the recommended settings. If the problem persisted I would then assume the controller
was faulty.
Is it possible you're not reading the display properly? and it's really reading 500w not 5000w? If so, I would fully charge the battery since a drained battery could cause the controller to cut power to the motor to protect the battery. Check that C14 is set to 4, a lower setting could damage the battery and a higher setting can cause it to cut power to the motor prematurely. Then I would reset the controller to it's defaults and reprogram all the settings. If that didn't do anything I would go through the process described below (assuming a loose connection was the problem).
Assuming the controller isn't faulty that would circle me back to the wiring either being connected wrong or not tight. If the connector between the battery and the controller was loose and arcing there
would be wild fluctuations in the power readings and the motor would cut off and on (but logically so should the display but maybe not).
Flip the bike upside down and take the controller off, inspect all the connections and clean them with canned electronics cleaner and/or compressed air. Then put the stock controller back in making sure all connections are correct and tight (the connectors have arrows that line up, work in a well lit area so you can see them clearly, use a flashlight if you need to), then do a test run around the block. If everything worked as it should then reinstall the 35a controller, reset the display settings to default then reprogram it with the recommended settings. If the problem persisted I would then assume the controller
was faulty.
