I bought this one from Amazon, $120. The bike rides really well. I've has numerous car trips, one 400 miles. If you have fat tires the tire holders need to be widened. A car jack worked fine.

https://amzn.to/3y4xCSF

The Luna battery web page has all you need to know about batteries. If you don't want to look it up at least view this clip from their site. "Do not store your lithium batteries either fully charged or fully discharged....but somewhere in the middle. If you have a smart charger, we recommend you charge to 80 percent and store there.

If you are storing for a long period of time (like the several months of winter), charge it to around 50 percent and keep it in a fire-safe place."
https://www.electricbike.com/ebike-battery-longevity/
Hope you get riding weather soon.

Quote from: Mary on November 27, 2020, 12:18:13 AM
Hello I have the same proplem with my Kickstand being to short after adding front Suspension. How did you add to length of your Kickstand? How did you make it work? Thanks

hello, I cut the legs in half, found a thin aluminum pipe that tightly fit over the legs, cut two pieces 1 1/2 inch longer than the legs, slid the pies on, with some JB Weld epoxy glue and also added 4 set screws for overkill. They have worked fine, so far. They stick out about 1/2 wider than the originals but don't get in the way. I also trimmed the rubber stop so the kickstand would close a little higher.

Howdy, I tried one, I filed down the rubber on the mirror to fit inside of the handle bar. It worked until my Moonshine Runner decided to lay down on a rough trail, then it broke. I now have the Hafney HF-MR095 mounted on the handle bar, so far so good.

Howdy, I have the Runner 1 and really like the center stand for when I load the back rack. It is a bit more work than a side stand cuz you have to lift the bike a bit to get the centerstand  down. I also had to lengthen the arms 1 1/2 inches when I put on the front shock absorber forks. If you plan on carrying loads the centerstand makes loading more stable. It probably is a little heavier, but so are the loads I carry and that is why I like electricity. I have not had clearance problems, the centerstand is no wider than the bike and has not dragged in any of my off road riding.

For Jman
Here is a step by step of my installing the Bolton forks.
1. The forks arrived with only the forks in the box, no instructions, measurements or anything, no air pressure recommendation. Bolton sells an installation package but are out of stock.
2. You need a star nut to screw in the top bolt into the stem. Amazon has a set of 5 for $7. I didn't have the patience (two days) so I took the old one out of the stock fork. Unless you have a few tools it isn't recommended. I had to file off a weld at the bottom of the stem to drive the star nut down through it. In driving the star nut down it compresses it and you have to expand it once you get it out so it will fit tightly into the new stem.
3. The new fork stem is 2 1/8 inches shorter than the old one, scary at first. But the new one fits in the bike frame perfectly without the conical spacer (surprisingly 2 1/8 inches).
4. I took off the old lower bearing race from the stock fork and put it on the new fork. The fork stem was just right, maybe a hair smaller diameter stem than the old fork.
5. Put in the new fork, put on the handle bars, used the original bolt that holds it in.
6. So the fork is in place but the brake pads holder need 1/2 inch spacers between the fork and brake pad holder to locate the pads in center of the rotor. You need new bolts to hold it on.
    Luckily I had some bolts I could cut to fit (I'm a professional scrounger).
7. My brake cable fit. Someone in this feed said they had to buy a longer one.
8. I bought the fenders from Rad and had to really adjust the struts to get them to line up with the threads on the new fork. See my previous picture.
9. With a longer fork the center stand doesn't reach the floor. It needs to be 1 1/2 inches longer. After much thought, and without a welder, I decided to cut the center stand about in
    half. From a previous scrounge I luckily had stainless steel pipe that snuggly fit over the legs. I cut two pipes long enough to slide over the legs, adding 1 1/2 inch in length. four set
    screws keep it all together. The extra length makes the center stand stick out a little more, so far it isn't a problem. If they do drag sometime I may heat them up and squeeze them
    tighter.
I hope this helps.

I too like shooting wildlife, the back pack has a Nikon D500 and assorted lenses the cargo box has a blind, chair, tripod and camo cover for the bike. I got tired of dressing game.

Howdy, I just installed the Bolton forks also. I used 1/2 inch brass spacers. So far the brakes work well. The forks are fantastic, compare a Jeep to a limo on a washboard gravel road. The fender struts required a lot of bending to fit to the fork holes.

Hello, I bought one and love it. It added about 2 MPH but the acceleration is fantastic, on a slight up hill it wants to wheelie. The wires are one for one swap. The new controller is wider than the original so I made a wider skid plate. You may need to drill another hole in the skid plate or controller tab.
I fully recommend it.

Quote from: Altema on September 01, 2020, 12:50:57 PM
Nice version of an auxiliary tank! Do you power down the display before flipping the switch?

I do turn off the display, key off the battery that was in use, flip the switch to the other battery, turn on the second battery, then turn on the display. That may be over cautious but works.

Quote from: 992023515 on August 15, 2020, 06:34:55 PM
I would be interested in where you got the battery and a schematic of the wiring. Looks cool.

Howdy. The battery is from Amazon "Unit Pack Power" 48v 15 ah, $308. I had to do a slight frame mod to get it to fit. All dimensions are listed on Amazon so you could probably get one that fits without mods. The schematic drawings are poor. I took a Mechanical drawing class at the U of Fla a few years ago (1960), and lost a lot of lead since then. The DTDP switch is from NAPA, it is rated at 250V 15 amp and 120V 78 Amp, so I figured it would hold 48 volts. After full power for a few minutes it isn't even warm. I like it cuz the batteries are never in parallel, always separate.

Howdy, I installed a thin plywood shelf resting on the rear frame crossover and put two small "L" brackets on the downtubes and mounted the metal shelf that came with the battery on the plywood. It uses the battery key lock.
It is really nice not worrying about electrons for getting home.

Some of the mods I made.
Second battery, with a 2P2T switch so I can use one or the other, or turn both off.
Wrapped the cables with swirl wrap, 8mm from Amazon. I think it looks better than the velcro cover.
The new controller from Bolton is a lot wider than original so I made a wider skid plate from aluminum.
The front wheel on the Runner swings all the way to one side or the other when on the center stand and off the ground. I saw a spring on the Rad Cargo Bike that holds the front wheel straight so I put a piece of rubber tubing from the fender bolt to the the frame. It works great, can't feel any control difference when riding.

I rode my Moonshine Runner for 4 months without any flats, then I got three in a row (goat heads). I put in Stan’s NoTubes Tire Sealant slime stuff and haven’t had a flat in two months, I did pull out three goat heads and the Stan’s closed them before I lost air. Good luck.

I've had two goat head flats, Center of the tire, only 5mm long.