You don't need to by this product from Juiced.  I bought same product from AliExpress for <$35.  Well worth the 30 day wait and works like a charm. 

Quote from: Altema on February 26, 2022, 05:26:51 AM

Quote from: Seasaw on February 24, 2022, 05:04:52 PM
Why would the 25amp controller be so much less efficient?

It lacks the dual stage output of the 35 amp version, so the 25 amp version has no efficiency mode for low power use. If you are riding hard most of the time and bursting to 1000 watts, the difference won't be as much. But if you are riding with mild pedal assist and only using 200 watts, you'll see a big difference in battery use between the two controllers because the 25 amp controller just doesn't have the low power efficiency stage. There may be other factors involved, but that would be information the manufacturer would need to provide. All I can state is the results from both controllers on the exact same bike, and there was always better range with the 35 amp controller.

Amount of detail I have found on the 25 amp controller has been nearly non-existent.  Your info is the first I have seen that would question the "value" of this controller upgrade.  While I am not fully questioning your results, do you know of any additional 3rd party results or reviews that would collaborate??  I have the 35 amp controller on my 2019 Rad Rover and love it.  Due to mounting differences, I have been reviewing potential of the 25 amp controller for my Wife's 2019 Rad City Step Thru.  Only 60% of battery range would be a serious no-go for me, so any additional information is appreciated.  FYI - I tried the EggRider V2 direct from EggRider, but I was not impressed. It constantly lost connection with iPhone and there didn't really seem to be any differentiation in power control with the PAS levels. The EggRider Facebook forum had several posts with same issues. It appeared to be all or nothing, so I returned it for refund.

In theory the EggRider should improve the Rad performance.  Many, many reviews out there saying the EggRider does enable nearly 900 watts power (17 amps x 48 volts = 816 Watts).  What is not clear is if the CA product is hardware limited to 500 watts (500Watts / 48 Volts = 10.4 Amps from controller) or if it is a software limitation.  Best course of action would be to reach out EggRider direct and ask via their contact page.  They are very responsive and should be able to provide some good guidance.  Alternate course of action would be to purchase the Bolton 35 AMP Controller & Display upgrade that is plug and play.  Bolton is also very responsive to inquiries.

EggRider
https://shop.eggrider.com/index.php?route=information/contact

Bolton
https://boltonebikes.com/products/radpowerkit
https://boltonebikes.com/pages/contact-us

After nearly 1000 miles, I got my first rear flat on my Rad Rover.  Easy patch, but still had to take bike out of commission for couple days.  No freaking way I could patch a rear tire when on a trail, so I'm really interested in flat prevention/mitigation.  I am not sold on the Tannus Armor, so will go another way.  I used the video below for some helpful information.  I have placed on order two new 26x4 tires - Kenda Krusade Anti-puncture Tire, but they are on back order until end of March.  I just need to decide upon new heavy duty tubes, so if others have recommendation I am open to listen.  I also, based on the test results of the video below, I will plan to use Flat Out in my tires instead of Slime.  Wish me luck.   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X0y-2AsGRk&t=595s

Got my first rear flat on my 2019 RR couple months ago (prior to cold and snow) at ~ 1000 miles on original Kenda's.  I was in no real rush to fix the flat due to recent weather here in SE Michigan.     I recently patched the rear tube and reinstalled the rear tire.  Good news is that that patch is holding air pretty good, but the bad news is that the rear rim/tire assembly seem to be off balance.  There's a huge wobble when the rim/time assembly rotates making the bike unrideable.  I can't compare to original condition, but it looks like maybe the bead on one side may be seated lower that the rest.  Is this even possible?  Any way to fix?  After 1000 miles I am confident that the rear tire needs to be replace, but this really isn't a possibility as it appears that nearly everybody is out of stock on decent Fat Tire's.  I did place an order at Sportsman Guide for a pair of Kenda Krusade Anti-puncture Tires, but they are on back order until April.  Any experience with these Kenda Krusade tires?  I need to get the current wheel wobble fixed as I am doing some performance mods (35A Controller, Dual Battery, etc.) and I need to safely demo the mods.  Any insight on new tires and current wheel wobble is appreciated. 

Old thread, but still relevant.  I do not believe that the Bolton Dual Battery Parallel Connector can be used on a Rad City as it is not capable with regenerative braking systems as found on the Rad City.  Thinking the only viable solution is dual batteries wired in parallel and separated via a switch.  Regardless of what some believe, running two batteries in parallel without protection is a recipe for disaster especially when charge levels are wide causing rapid current flow from high charge to lower charge.