Okay, pics showed up. Thanks

I shrunk them a bit to fit the page, but you can plainly see that the ridges on the glide bar have worn away and once that happens the wheel lock won't hold the wheel down anymore. Basically the locking mechanism just jumps right over them since there is not enough material left to stop them from advancing. Not really sure what he was smoking when he set the max weight of 75 lbs for this hold down system.

Please make sure you have auxiliary tie downs in place on the bike frames when using these racks. Do not rely on just the tire hold downs and make sure you use a locking hitch pin or similar device to hold the steel rack square tube bar hitch in the receiver. Do not just rely on just the tightening stabilizer "ball" that you tighten with the supplied Allen head security wrench.

Are you using the 1Up supplied ramp with fat tire bikes?

Last and final communication (if you want to call it that) they claim that the supplied hardware pins that lets you swing the tire hold down bars low enough to use the loading ramp are no good and you have to use a standard nut and bolt to keep the assembly ridged enough to lock on the glide bar. Then you can't use the ramp with out disassembly of the frame each time you want to deploy the ramp.

I'll let everyone know that this is a schitty hold down design and 1Up knows it yet wont honor the $20 parts warranty when these parts wear out within days of first use. A bit sad actually, they would rather try to belittle you and verbally abuse you so you go away. Horrid yet snobby customer no-service.

Since I'm $1K in the hole so to speak with these A-holes, I'll look into a manner of either strengthening the spring on the glide bar lock mechanism or see if I can create a stronger glide bar for the lock mechanism to latch onto. Could be as simple as grinding the grooves in the glide bars a bit deeper/ steeper and installing an improved stronger spring for more hold down pressure.

Not sure yet if it'll let me simply attach pics as files as I did or do I have to have them hosted elsewhere and import them.

This...thru the back and front of the seat tube and in between the upper & lower rear wheel frame drop tubes:

https://amzn.to/3MFUmjB

Lock Picking Lawyer Approved. Got a couple short versions (5-6 lbs each) to lock the wheels to the frame & a couple long versions (10 Lbs+)  to attach the frame to suitable objects. It would take a cut off wheel(s) to break it.

That and electronic motion alarm modules. Dam are they loud. Chirp, chirp.

Had the chain come off the front sprocket the other day after riding over some large pot holes on a gravel road. Chain went down into the sprocket bash guards and seized. Could not pull the chain back out by hand to put back on the teeth until I loosened the 5 or 6 Allen bolts holding the sprocket & bash guards to the crank. At least take the tool kit they supplied with the bike...always.

If you have the step-thru style frame, we are finding that when loaded with a rear rack, the frame simply twists a bit. Yes it doesn't feel so stable at times but happens due to the nature of the aluminum constructed frame design and/ or lack of a top frame tube.

Seems to be worst at super slow speeds in our case, but I'll take the step-thru design with some frame wobble over the step-over design at this stage. Just hope it stays flexible and doesn't crack at the notch 

Love the Rad Rover 6+ E-bikes just don't even think the 1 UP brand Super Duty Double (2") bike rack is up to the task. At first glimpse it seems like it's robust enough in design and others may praise it but we found it didn't even last a dozen deployments.

The bikes are indeed within the written specified weight limits of the 1UP bike rack. We always remove the batteries to help lessen the load on the rack and use 1UP's matching ramp to load.

Problem lies with the way the tire hold down bars lock, or in our case do not lock anymore. As others have stated the same premature wear occurs to the locking grooved bar that the hold down bars rely on to stay locked in place. The aluminum grooves wear instantly under the bike's load over normal paved road surfaces.

I'm not a certified engineer but either the grooves need to be deeper or the spring needs to be stronger on the latch mechanism or use something other than aluminum for the task or all the above.

Totally look for something else as 1UP Customer NO Service will deny there is any design issue and forget about them sending replacement parts under warranty, no matter how many times they're contacted. Deny, Deny, Deny is their motto. Sad waste of $1K

Our RadRover 6 step-in frame did not come with water bottle holder mounts. I got a Top Peak rear rack bag that has a bottle holder built in. It's insulated and has a bottom with a drain hole.

There should be plenty of bike water bottle holders on the bay or Amazone with some that clamp to the seat post or sown tube as well if there are no provided mounts. Like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403628028458?hash=item5dfa1af22a:g:EugAAOSwDdBialht

The spokes may simply need adjusted. This is common and can be done by a reputable bike shop or owner by having a basic spoke wrench tool and have access to Utube instructions. Certain spokes may need tightened while other get loosened on a wheel to bring the the wheel into the best radial alignment.

The wheel also may be bent or have a flat spot. This can sometimes be repaired by a reputable bike shop as well and could be less than purchasing a new wheel.

Hello all. Just assembled our first of two Rad Rover 6+ step thru machines. Got the white one first and the charcoal will be here in a few days. This was only a few days after ordering with the most excellent $600 discount that sealed the deal. Thank you very much Rad!

Box arrived a bit punctured in places shipping Fed-Ex from the west to east coast but no apparent damage luckily. Typical areas like the top of the header tube bracket, kick stand and fork bottom shipping plate were blown out so they could add some thicker foam there in the box.

All went together easily with the tools provided. Right rear frame fender mounting boss hole threads had to be coaxed a bit with some additional oil due to extra powder coat paint in the hole. The handle bars were factory configured to swing the cables far out from the head tube. Probably to clear a front basket, but this looked all wonky and a simple extra twist of the bars before mounting them fixed them so they hugged the top tube better. This did not add any addition stress to the cables. I re-routed one of the cables under the frame cover so it payed out better in that same area. I plan to do some additional cable management. I'll take some pics if it turns out well.

Nixed the bright yellow sticker on the top of the frame that was staring me in the face... Lawyers.

This one came with rubber bolt on palm grips in place of the faux leather ones. Nice upgrade.

Other upgrades on the way for both bikes are bigger comfort seats. Pivoting linkage style suspension seat tubes. RAD Factory rear racks. Top Peak MTX hard side quick rack bags with panniers & required sliding racks (Had to order the slide racks from Japan & they came in two days, freaky) Compact remote control alarms. Kryptonite Evolution 5' chains. Handle bar mount modern mirrors. Nite Ize Wraptor cell phone holders.

For the Jeep Wrangler JK they'll be transported on, we installed a 2" receiver hitch & ordered a KBO brand electric bike rack rated for 160 lbs. We'll let you know how that works out when it comes in.

Thanks for reading and I hope I can contribute & learn stuff from time to time