Quote from: JimInPT on August 30, 2021, 03:27:01 PMI've heard stories about being able to change it to 40 yet still get no actual speed increase; not sure I believe those.

Looks like some of us being called liars, THANKS!
I've personally gone into the menus of 5 Minis and several Cities and Rovers. Since were talking Minis here, the speed override trick worked on two of them and didn't on the other three.

Quote from: JimInPT on August 30, 2021, 03:27:01 PM
I've never heard about a Rad bike being firmware-updated after shipment - does anybody know if they've ever sent files to upload through the USB port or something?  Maybe that's possible via a port on the controller board.

There's a capped "mystery port attached to the controller of at least some Rads (Minis included). There's been some speculation that it's a programming port, most likely used in manufacturing to configure universal off-the-shelf controllers as they're installed in particular bike or localized market models (at least that's what other manufacturers do to minimize model specific inventory). No reason it couldn't be used by a Rad authorized service centers or mechanics if the proper equipment were provided, but then again, it may only be some kind of test/readout port...  If Rad doesn't provide a way of updating firmware it's because they don't care/want to, not because it cant be done.

Quote from: JimInPT on August 30, 2021, 03:27:01 PM
With all the things I've owned that have been modded by firmware outside factory control, I'm a little surprised there's no mod scene for Rad bikes to customize them as desired, AFAIK.

Try looking up EggRiderV2, it's been mentioned here. Unfortunately it's not a flash & remove thing, it must remain in place to send customized instructions to the stock Rad controller.

Quote from: Albert George on August 30, 2021, 01:43:14 PM
...Does anyone have any info on that rumor?...

They aren't rumors. Different people have posted different things because that's the way the bikes have been coming through, it's a crapshoot. Minis used to be able to be set to 40 km/h via the hidden menu, then they couldn't, then they could, then they couldn't, and who knows which way the next batch will be.

You could call Rad and tell them you want to cancel your order unless they guarantee in writing that you will be able to override the 20 MPH top speed limit for Class 2 Ebikes mandated by US Law (and many other jurisdictions as well) on the whatever they ship you. Let us know how that goes.

Your lucky you don't have an OEM RadMini Rack!

Looks like the arms of your rack that connect to welded frame bosses on your RM4 attach on the outside.

With a Rad OEM Mini rack, they attach to the inside of those bosses, which limits the size of the battery that can fit between them.

With a bit of Dremel work to the front of the Rad Mini rack arms (didn't want to do anything to the frame of the Mini while it was still under warranty), I was able to squeeze in a 48V 17.4Ah battery but didn't have room of anything bigger, at least if I wanted to be able to remove it easily.

That's why the minimal clearance between your battery case and fender surprises me. That Unit Pack Power battery must release from its tray differently than my Rad or Bafang batteries. With them, after unlocking the key lock, the battery can be slid up only a short distance until the plastic locking tabs are clear to "lift", at which point one has to pull them away from the tray about 10mm to be able to continue lifting the battery the rest of the way up and out. Do the UPP batteries just slide straight up all the way in long continuous tracks without having to do a lift maneuver to clear the keyed tracks on the Rad and and a lot of other batteries and their mounting trays?   

Quote from: RandyS on August 28, 2021, 07:36:00 AM...Too bad someone doesn't make a smaller tension gauge....

That's what I was wondering, whether someone finally did, or just made another copy of the Park gauge with 4 inch pin spacing, sounds like the later.

I'm beginning to wonder whether we'll ever see a reliable and affordable"smaller" one. Making a gauge of this type construction smaller (moving the end pins closer together) would likely make it more inaccurate, particularly in terms of reading variability and repeatability. Other type of tension gauges can be made smaller but were probably talking about seriously more $$$ for something that would be reliable enough, particularly with 12 gauge spokes.

Strange, even though this thread wasn't originally posted to the Mini specific subsection of this forum, it appears that all reports of similar problems so so far relate to Minis. which makes one wonder if these problems are related to a recent specific build lot or lots...

Several possible causes for something like this come to mind:

Since virtually all modern bikes use "indexed" shifting systems (like Shimanos SiS), and the "detents" that control where the rear derailleur stops for each gear are located in the shift selector mechanism on the handler (NOT in the rear derailleur itself), could someone report whether Rad has also changed the selector to a Mezzu supplied unit as well? The ones Rad has used with Shimano Altus RD equipped bikes in the (recent) past have been silver colored  Shimano SLTX50 Tourney (right) Thumb Shifters, clearly marked "SHIMANO 7 SPEED" and "SiS INDEX". It generally doesn't hurt to mix shifter component manufacturers (shifter, cables, derailleur), as long as each component (particularly the handlebar mounted shift selection mechanism) adheres to industry standard pull distance increment/detent spacing specifications. Shimano SLTX50 Tourney Right Thumb Shifters are easily obtainable on the internets (and sometimes available from Rad), and are easily replaceable.

Another possibility is that Rad got hold of a batch of DNP Epoch 11-34 Freewheels with an incorrect thickness spacer between two of the cogs, probably either the 5-6 or 6-7 spacer. Freewheels like Rad uses (unlike Cassettes)  can't be disassembled to replace individual components so they have to be swapped out as a unit. DNP Epoch 11-34 Freewheels are usually available on the internets (at least they were in pre-COVID bicycle component shortage days), but require special tools to install.

Again related to the DNP Epoch 11-34 Freewheel, IF something were wrong with  the tooth profile on the 6th speed cog or its shifting ramps, problems such as those reported could occur. This could be due to a manufacturing defect such as a worn out stamping die or a bunch of other things.  It's also possible that either the adjacent 5th or 7th speed cog teeth/shiifting ramps could be misshapen, but if that were true, one would expect the problem to only be present when shifting in one direction, UP, or DOWN, but not both.

The final thing that comes to mind involves some miscalculation involving the geometry of the four-bar linkage used in the Mezzu rear derailleur, and although that one gets complicated, Shimano Altus replacements like those used in earlier Rads are (or were) obtainable on the internets and from Rad.

Then there's the possibility that the problem might become less severe or even go away as parts wear in (most likely if slightly misshapen cog teeth are what's causing this problem), only time will tell, and it might help to understand what's going on here if people reported their bike model and total mileage when posting about the problem.

Quote from: RandyS on August 27, 2021, 03:25:15 PM...The step-through also has the capability of mounting a water bottle bracket on that down tube (the screws are pre-mounted and ready to attach a bracket), whereas the regular Mini doesn't have that capability...

Yeah, the water bottle mounts right where one steps through. I've met more than one MIni ST owner who has added the kind of front rack mount mounted dual bottle holder people use on regular Minis to get the ST downtube mounted bottle out of their way.

Quote from: RandyS on August 27, 2021, 03:15:23 PM...
Amazon tension measuring tool link:
https://amzn.to/3kRbBRk

Have you actually used the linked tool to measure the tension on the rear wheel spokes on your Mini?

I already had a Park TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter and the two outer "measuring pins" are too far apart (4.0" centre-to-centre) to fit over the short spokes on the Mini rear wheel. Since the front spokes are a bit longer, the gauge fits (barely), but doesn't feel right to me, being off center and so close to the nipples.  I've always had trouble trying to use it on other 20" folder wheels.

What is the centre-to-centre dimension across the two round, fixed, outer pins on the gauge you linked (I couldn't find a spec on Amazon)?

12 gauge spokes are notoriously difficult to read tension on. Since they don't deflect as much as thinner ones, the variation you're trying to detect will be much smaller, and the possibility for reading error variation will be higher. Averaging multiple readings should help, but can take a lot of time, enough to make the job tedious instead of fun (at least for me) .

Did it to my 2020 RadMini 4 as soon as I received it and 3800+ miles later it certainly doesn't appear to have hurt anything and I haven't experienced any corrosion related electrical problems.

I also did all the "Higos" and every other electrical connector on the bike as I planned on riding all winter, but chickened out during the worst six weeks of salt slush on the roads.

How about trying some kind of strap extender? You didn't mention the size or construction of the straps that were too short but something here might help:
https://amzn.to/3A47s31

Quote from: jimsinoregon on August 26, 2021, 03:12:37 PM...I think I'll get the RadMini Step-thru...

Good idea! Don't be like me and buy a Mini 4 because it didn't look like a girls bike, and 3800+ miles later find yourself wishing you had bought a Step-Thru.

With that said, I use a mounting technique that doesn't involve throwing a leg over my rather tall rear mounted rack topper bag and feeling like I'm about to dislocate a hip:
I stand on the left side of the bike, put my left foot on the left pedal and push off with my right foot while cranking the throttle wide open. I pull my right foot forward and up and the building momentum of the bike seems to help the right foot clear the top tube and come down on the right pedal (for a second it does look like you're trying to ride sidesaddle). It would probably be even easier to accomplish on a step-thru if you get bored with being normal.  The technique works on a regular Mini because it has a relatively lop top tube (not so on a regular Rover, City or Mission).

Quote from: TheOrangeWhipWagon on August 26, 2021, 01:16:27 PM...so I'm looking into some padded shorts.

If you're talking about padded cycling short OUTERWEAR, I can't help.

BUT (no pun intended), if padded cycling underwear that can be worn under anything would work for you, these are what I use on ~40 to 100 mile rides:
https://amzn.to/2WHhuIF

They run true to size, have proved quite durable (I have 20+ rides on mine) and I wear them under jeans because I ride through brush and fall down a lot.

The OP specifically asked if anyone had used FLAT bars! Two out of three replies suggested RISER bars, the exact opposite of what the OP was looking for information on, so it makes no difference how stylish, well anodized and numerically controlled the recommended riser bars are if they're not what he wants.

Quote from: graefjon on August 25, 2021, 07:18:10 PM
Has anyone considered shortening the chain and removing the chain tensioner altogether?...

There are single speed, fixie and geared hub bicycles out there that don't use chain tensioners, BUT virtually all have horizontal dropouts, which allow the back wheel to be moved to set the initial chain tension, then periodically moved rearward to take up slack as the chain wears. Those who find having to adjust their mechanical disk brakes periodically a major PITA, will hate having to do this too.

I don't have a Mission but it looks to me like they have vertical dropouts (like most bikes), which won't allow the wheel position to be adjusted to compensate for chain wear so a chain tensioner or a rear derailleur (with a cage) must be used  to deal with the problem of the chain getting longer as it wears, and this approach offers another major benefit in that no periodic manual adjustments are required as the chain wears.

There are reliable chain tensioners out there, I've got thousands of miles on my tensioner equipped Rohloff geared hub bikes with zero problems (don't know if their XC can be adapted to fit a Mission): http://www.modernbike.com/product-2126250919

Does that "Battery Recharging Controller" have a CC/CV profile specifically for charging lithium-ion batteries (it kinda looks like a typical solar installation lead acid-charger)? Could be a problem if it doesn't.

No name, yet...

The Rad Display protector came from: http://www.etsy.com/listing/846589238/rad-power-bike-screen-cover?gpla=1&gao=1&

What appears to be the rightmost light is actually a Hornit electronic horn (for when the polite bell doesn't do the job): http://us.hornit.com/products/hornit-db140

The fuzzy thing on the far right is a combination dribble wiper holder (a wrist sweat band) and a soft tip electronic device button pusher for when I ride with gloves on (I made it from a plastic gluing clamp).

On days that hit 90+ºF in the afternoon, I often ride at night instead. Each light has its own strong points, I'm trying to narrow it down to a couple in addition to the stock Rad, which is mounted low and angled down ~20' in front of the bike so I can turn everything else off and not blind people I approach on trails at night (unlike what some a--holes do to me).