yes sounds like alignment

I had an issue with a Rover 5.  The wiring in the cradle is thin so high current melted the insulation.  It expanded the cradle battery input connector.  It made the battery difficult to remove.  I had to replace the connectors on the cradle and the battery.  They were slightly different size though they looked the same.  So both sides I had to replace.  It was an easy replacement.  Solved the issue. 

My power issue was no power from the motor or no power from the battery to the LCD.  Sometimes I had power and worked for a few minutes sometimes not at all. 

 

On your RAD there are just 2 wires.  Red and Black.  Makes it easy.

That said there is a guy in London trying to sell his battery $200US as he can't ship it back to the states.
He is listed on this forum within the past few days.

why not take it as carry on in the plane?

from the posts i have read it is the controller. 

Area13 should have an upgraded version.  it will give you a little extra power. 
reduces your 2 screens to 1 color display. 

It could be the issue I had.  I used the throttle often and I overheated the battery connector (cradle side) and it melted and expanded.  I replaced the cradle battery terminal due to melting issues. 

Probably the fastest way to tell is if the battery is difficult to remove from the cradle.  The plastic expands making it difficult to remove.  The sure way is to open the cradle side to see any signs of melting. 

Replacing the connectors (I replaced both sides one on battery and one on cradle) was not difficult.  I think I just did wire crimping.    I replaced battery side because the replacement was not an exact fit. 

Purchased from Amazon for about $12. 

could be moisture inside the motor.  are you riding while it is raining or wet outside? 
magnets may have rusted and expanded creating a unstable connection.

Quote from: mbates50 on September 21, 2024, 06:39:25 PM

Quote from: inoxa on February 07, 2024, 06:57:54 AMToo cold and too hot can reduce battery performance

what a dumb reply

Not really it is true.  If the battery gets too cold or if the battery gets too hot due to ambient temperatures, performance of the battery will be reduced.  Longevity of the battery will also be reduced. 

It is a for torque.  I think if you flip it and rotate the wheel it will align.

The problem was corrected with the newer integrated batteries. 

So you shouldn't have to worry.

I had a Rover 5 and day one I knew it had more power in there.  Within a few months I upgraded my controller.
It was a world of difference in the 2.

I highly recommend it. 

I recently sold my Rover.  It had over 6000 miles on it.  It served me well.

I replaced with an even stronger bike by a different manufacturer.  Once I got hooked on the RAD upgrades I wanted more.  So I switched.

I doesn't make sense that it would be one piece because it has to go inside the frame.  I don't see how it would be possible.  It has to disconnect some where.  For mass market you won't have someone soldiering it.

Aftermarket controllers are plug in.  Where it plugs in on your model I don't know.  It will be somewhere on or near the battery cradle. 

My Rover 5 is under the bike near the pedals. 

Quote from: Benjamin J on September 11, 2024, 07:43:45 AMAlso, I thought I'd ask if the battery is hard-wired to the controller or is there a connector between the two?

There will be a connector between the controller and the battery cradle.

OK

maybe start a new ad and reword it. 

may just say Working Rad City 5 wheel and motor and indicate approximate mileage.

Not sure what you are indicating.

What is the problem?  What do you want to achieve?

Rad sent exactly what to achieve what?