I saw this on e-bikes.org.

?As we said, it doesn?t take long for most hub drives to warm on steep hills, but they cool down quickly. A two- to five-minute break is a fair amount of time to let it get back to proper operating temperature. But if you start to get errors on flat ground with minimal load, you may have a separate problem which you should consult a bike shop about.?

Quote from: JimInPT on February 26, 2024, 12:25:46 PM
Here are my settings, along with some older ones (latest stable settings are on the left; haven't felt the need to tweak further is almost 2 years).  Note that these are for a 2021 MiniST2 with 20" rims - YMMV depending on bike model:

Thanks, I?ll check it out.

Quote from: John Rose on February 26, 2024, 02:40:04 AM
I always use the throttle to get going from a stop anyway, and that seems to be the advice that most instructional videos give. I like having a few seconds to get my feet off the ground and settled onto the pedals.

On my unmodified RadExpand 5 the PAS delay is about 1/3 of a pedal turn, and even then it ramps up. I think it's meant as a safety feature so that it doesn't take off if you merely look real hard at the pedals.

I think I?m getting closer to 360 degrees of rotation or more. I didn?t pay close attention to how much it was, but it?s more than I want.

Quote from: John Rose on February 26, 2024, 02:17:49 AM

Quote from: Traildad on February 25, 2024, 03:34:03 PM
... I'm wondering if it is lowering pedal assist to protect the motor. ...

That sounds reasonable.
As near as I can guess, the PAS setting chooses some maximum current (or voltage?) to send through/to the motor, more or less depending on the selected PAS level.
I suppose that over-riding the user's setting and reducing the PAS after some duration of sustained high current would be the simplest way to protect the motor.

As far as measuring the temperature goes, you can buy thermometer stickers like this one, from industrial equipment suppliers:



You would have to stop to read it.
The trick would be to choose one with a useful range of temperatures.

Beware of the non-reversible variety though. They are meant to record only the maximum temperature it was subjected to, for applications like on shipping crates containing heat-sensitive items or cargo that must be kept refrigerated.
I vaguely remember using the non-reversible type at my former workplace on capacitors installed in high-power radio transmitters.

I was using a temperature gun. I read that the external temperature doesn?t accurately reflect how hot the wires are so I was wasting my time reading the temps.

I went on my first real ride today since I upgraded my controller to an Area 13 controller on my Rad 6+. The delay for pedal assist seemed to be a problem as I started off from a stop. It?s ok if I use the hand throttle from a stop and let the pedal assist take over. I?m thinking I want to reduce or eliminate the delay. I?m wondering how everyone has set all the different settings on their Bolton controllers and why they chose what they did.

Well I made an attempt to ride up the hill today but I didn?t go all the way up. The highest temperature I recorded was 118. I read online that the internal temperature will be much higher than what I?m reading with my thermometer gun. The controller seemed to be resetting the pedal assist when it timed out and turned off. When I made my last attempt it was very steep so I didn?t get far at all. As I turned back downhill I noticed the pedal assist was very low or off, I can?t remember which. I?m wondering if it is lowering pedal assist to protect the motor. I got much farther up the hill than I did with the original controller, so I?m happy.

I?m 65 and not very strong on the pedaling so most of the work will be done by the motor. I have an IR thermometer so I?ll give that a try along with taking some cool down breaks. Thanks for the replies.

There is a trail near me that is around 1.5 miles gaining 750 feet in elevation. I?d like to try it now that I have the area 13 controller upgrade. The guy at the bike shop that installed it warned me about putting too much strain on the motor. How well does the RR6+ handle hill climbs. I like the view from the top but I dont want to burn up my motor. Anyone have experience doing hills?

Thanks 👍

I found he explains how to enter setup mode in the YouTube video on the Rover 6+. Now I?m hoping there is a setting to get full power twist throttle for all peddle assist settings. The website says that has been corrected in the controllers he sells now, I just hope mine can be fixed too.

I had my controller installed by a shop and I don?t have a manual. How do you enter setup mode?

Took it out for a quick spin around the block. I like the new controller. It has good acceleration but not so powerful that it would ride out from under me.

I just got my bike back from the shop. They installed the Area 13 controller upgrade, installed new front and rear brakes with longer hydraulic hoses, installed longer shifter cables and adjusted my handlebar so I can sit more upright while I ride. It started raining as I loaded it in my truck so I haven?t test rode it yet but I?m looking forward to it.

I found a Nutt brake assembly with an 82.7 inch rear hydraulic line and 53 inch front line. It comes with everything including rotors. I?m pretty sure the lines are more than long enough and I won?t have to try to match the ones on my bike. So I think that will solve the biggest part of my problem.

I want to raise the handlebar on my Rad Rover 6+. I added some spacers but there isn?t enough slack in the electrical cables and brake hoses to raise it enough for me to sit upright. In order to raise it enough I need to add longer hydraulic hoses and controller wires. In the process of adding the spacers I over torqued the handlebar and I think I may have damaged it.
I called my local shop and asked if they could do the job for me. They said yes but when I took it there they said they wouldn?t work on it. I called a shop nearby that rents Rads and they refused to do it. I called a Rad dealership and they refused to do it. So it looks like I?m going to have to do it myself.
I work on my own cars so I figure I can do the job with the right tools, parts and information. I?m also going to add an upgraded controller I got from Area 13. I think I?ve found the extensions I need for the wires. I need to figure out what hydraulic hose I need and what I need to repair the headset. I don?t think there is a repair manual that has the information I need. With all the variations in parts that have been used it?s not easy to order replacements.
I guess the easy way would be to sell it and start over. Does anyone have some suggestions on how best to make this work?