The headset bearings on my rad runner 2 have seized.  The lower sealed bearing case wont turn. I pulled the stem, but I can't remove the cups or the encased bearing cages.  Does anyone have a tip on how to get them out of the frame? 

The upper bearings are crunchy.  The lower bearings wont run at all.

The fork stem is very rusted mid stem directly across from two holes in the frame.  I think moisture sat in the frame tubes and escaped out of these holes into the stem where they rusted the steel fork stem.  The rust spread, even some of the aluminum is corroded, into both encased bearings.  The lower bearing cage also had to deal with rust falling onto it.  It took some cleaning for me to even be sure that there was a bearing cage at the bottom.

My biggest problem now is that I can't remove the encased bearing cages to see if they can be cleaned and greased. I can't even remove them to replace them. 

Update on this. I managed to get Rad's online customer service people to respond by calling several stores and asking if anyone was going to respond.

They decided the battery failure is a warranty item and the new battery is on the way.

I did also buy a new battery from unit power pack which hasn't arrived yet.

Thanks handlebar.

I put in some Phil's Tenacious oil after the WD-40, but it is so sticky that I think I stopped before I had worked enough in there.  I need to put some more in I think.

Hi,

I have had on of the slots on the battery burn out.  I notice the issue because the battery was exceptionally difficult to remove from the tray.  It was melted together.  The slot contact somehow failed and melted the plastic housing around it.

I am trying to figure out if this is a Warranty issue, but I can't get RAD to respond.  I issued a customer service request and they closed it without talking to me.

Has anyone seen this issue?  Any advice on how to reach RAD for an answer on Warranty question or what I should do?  These batteries are pretty expensive. If it is not warranty, then I'll look into fixing the part that failed.  The batter still seems to charge and work, just this faulty slot.

I bought the Park tool FR 1.3 and drilled out the back to the appropriate size, but it wasn't large enough to fit over the rubber bolt cover.  I think cutting out a slice of the tool is the way to go.

But I gave up on that and I just bought some WD-40 and tried to clean the fly-wheel in place.  It worked mostly. I took the back wheel off in my basement and I sprayed the cassette and wiped and spun until no more dirt came out.  The pawls started to engage correctly after a little cleaning, but I kept at it for 40 minutes or so. No problems since, but I do think the flywheel makes a noise when I am not pedaling.

Nice project. 

We ride the kids to school on the Rad Wagon 4.  It is so nice riding right past the line of cars waiting to get into the drop off area and then to ride out past the same cars 15 minutes later.

My localish bike shop says they drilled through the park tool FR-1.3 to make the back end opening larger and have been able to use that.

I ordered the FR-1.3 and will see if that can work.

Hi,
I just found this forum from Ryan's youtube posting on replacing the rad wagon 4 motor.

I am finding I need to clean my freewheel.  The pawls are no longer engaging.  I had some trouble early in the winter with the freewheel not spinning freely, but I managed to add enough Phil's tenacious to get it moving again.  Maybe I added too much because the pawls seem to be stuck now.

I avoided cleaning the freewheel earlier because I heard I needed a special tool.  Now I am researching that special tool and the only one I can find is the specialty tool from Bolton that is currently out of stock.
https://area13ebikes.com/products/bafang-750-watt-freewheel-removal-tool-made-in-usa-by-bolton-labs

Is there another option?