Where do you plan to pull the needed 6v to run this light?  The forums are full of stories of RAD bikes blowing the headlamp circuit (mine included) by trying to drive a lamp with too much amperage draw.  Better off feeding the lamp from another power source location, as the existing headlamp circuit has a very low amp rating (.0A I read somewhere). Any more draw and it WILL blow that circuit in your controller.  I pull power from the charging port of the battery, and can drive 3 1200 lumen lamps, with no issues!  Make certain the light you buy can handle the 48 - 52 volts!

Or perhaps a sissy bar?

https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/sissy-bar-style-saddle-seat-rail-for-bikes-scooters.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4ZnB3p_H7gIVGcWGCh0Y-AYVEAQYASABEgJ_fvD_BwE

Take your pick!

https://www.google.com/search?q=bicycle+back+rest&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS698US698&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=v6fKe8wwvRAF_M%252Ctn-kcPbCgG5loM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTa8P7dlZCexQ0DR2B9uAyMeqdiOQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj2-s-tn8fuAhVRmVkKHdZ1BBwQ9QF6BAgMEAE#imgrc=v6fKe8wwvRAF_M

Obviously the top panel is not usable with the bench seat option, but will the side panels mount on a bike with the  side clear panels installed?

I installed the Bolton suspension fork/front end on my Rad Runner over the summer, and it made a world of difference in ride comfort.  Recently, I noticed that it would not hold air, and the shock would deflate quickly, making the bike un-rideable.  I emailed Bolton, and got an IMMEDIATE response from Kyle, offering a possible solution to try, and an offer to provide an exchange/replacement.  I am super impressed not only with the response, but the no questions asked exchange offer.   I have other upgrade parts from Bolton (many), and I am comforted that they stand behind their products.  I would certainly recommend Bolton for aftermarket parts, and my bike is SO MUCH more fun to ride with those I have added! 

I like my bar end mirrors hanging low!

I installed a Bolton suspension front end, and had the same issue.  i solved the problem elegantly and cheaply.  Get some perforated square metal tubing, and cut a length about 3-4".  You need to file the outside dimensions about 1/128 on all 4 sides to fit perfectly in the little detente where the kick stand base goes.  Run the same diameter but longer stainless bolt through the frame and tubing, then center stand hole and install as usual, with the tubing as a spacer.  Drill a self tapping screw on each side of the mounting plate to keep it from spinning, and it works perfectly.  Paint and install!

Thanks!  I was told to consider treating it like an Error 24, but that did not help. I will contact EBW today!

I completed some mods and went to turn on my bike, and got a "Motor position sensor fault", and nothing works.  I have not seen this or have not read about it. Any ideas?

Governor?  I have not heard of this. My Rad Runner has none I am aware of?

As you may know, I added a 1000w front hub motor to my Rad Runner. I began to have some concerns about the strength of the dropouts, which appear to be cast aluminum, and are not very "meaty".  I read some other reports where it may be unsafe to install a hub motor EITHER on a sprung fork front end, OR on a fork which was not designed to handle one.  So I ordered 2 of these, and bolstered up the dropouts, and feel much more secure.  I would probably install at least one even if I did not have a suspension fork OR a hub motor up front!  Inexpensive and easy to install!

If you are curious, the red thing is a twist handle for a hose clamp, and the steel rod coming up from the left and under the clamp is my fender strut. 

https://amzn.to/3l4cUeD

Hello forum!

I have a Radrunner, and have made major changes including front suspension fork, 35A controller and display, true 750w Baffang rear motor, and much more.  I have heard of Eggrider, but I simply cannot figure out what it does?  Is it a substitute for the display? Can it program the 35A controller?  Is it software only? Why would I want this?  Thanks for teaching me this!  If you have any questions regarding the modifications I have made, just ask!

I bought my 750w Baffang motor from Electric Bike World ($258 in stock).  Good company, on par with Bolton. They have controllers as well.  You don't need to change the controller to use this motor, but I would suggest you do!  My motor came with a 7 gear cassette, which you will need, because the chain does not line up with the new motor with the old gear installed.  Make certain you get that version. Also, this prepares for the future if you ever want to add shifting ability.  Lastly be certain you get a TRUE 750w motor. Many out there (like Rad) are calling their 500w motors 750, and they are not.  When you remove the cover off of both motors, be very careful. I suggest a heat gun, and you must have the proper security bit for the screws (Harbor Freight has them). You DON'T want to strip the heads, and they are tight!

Quote from: FortunatelyTheMilk on October 12, 2020, 12:59:02 PM
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0863524HS?pf_rd_r=4S9C4FMXFRJSN2330R0W&pf_rd_p=e632fea2-678f-4848-9a97-bcecda59cb4e

I've been looking at alternative vendors for a 750W upgrade motor, and I spotted this one. It states it will fit a 175mm dropout, which looks to be the right size, but I'm not sure if the cassette type is right for the RR?

Just wait until you devise some sort of seat suspension, and you will REALLY feel like you are in a limo!  I observed the same center stand issue as you did after the front end installation, but failed to equate it to the new front fork installation!  I thought I had somehow done some damage to the stand legs, and have been trying to devise a way to correct the issue.  I'll post back if and when I come up with something!

Quote from: Bob Mc on October 05, 2020, 08:31:07 PM
Howdy, I just installed the Bolton forks also. I used 1/2 inch brass spacers. So far the brakes work well. The forks are fantastic, compare a Jeep to a limo on a washboard gravel road. The fender struts required a lot of bending to fit to the fork holes.

The fender mounting does present a minor obstacle, but frankly 30 minutes with a couple of pliers, and some trial and error bending the struts, and the fender can be mounted up nicely.  Bob Mc and I both got our fenders mounted cleanly, in 2 different ways.  I actually like his better, but fender mounting is not even close to an insurmountable issue! 

Quote from: dan26ntn on October 08, 2020, 03:06:57 PM
I believe the fender mounts just like it does on the Radrunner Plus, which is on the very bottom of the lowers and it's drilled for the top mount (of the fender) as well. Also  , I think Radpower's explanation of why they won't offer the RR+fork separately for the older RR1 customers is a bunch of bull. How in the world is the tire going to hit the frame? It's not like they HAVE to sell us anything, but for people that bought one before the RR+ was available; it'd be nice to have that upgrade. https://www.biktrix.com/products/rst-guide-fork