Amazon has them. Make sure you pick the right pins/colours

For the sake of argument. Let's assume that you have a bad battery.

Quote from: DickB on September 27, 2022, 01:59:10 PMIf the display powers up the 40A fuse is not blown.

Does the battery charge?

https://www.radowners.com/index.php?topic=8970.msg20404#msg20404

Try to identify which fuses were blown? Do you have a meter to test with?
https://www.radowners.com/index.php?topic=1655.msg12657#msg12657
Since you have already opened the battery compartment. We know you have a surface mounted fuse because of black shrink wrap. It looked pretty accessible to measure if you have an open (bad) or shorted (good) fuse.

Be careful cutting the shrink wrap. People have accidentally slit the flex copper ribbon that goes to the charge level LEDs.
https://www.radowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=3348;image

Once you have determined whether you have a blown 10A or 40A fuse. Fixing it is not be that difficult unless you do not have the proper equipment. Soldering irons are super cheap just make sure you have the correct tip. And be careful not to overheat what you are soldering.

Quote from: nickster99 on October 21, 2024, 07:11:41 PMI may have closer to 300 can't check it with no battery and it may be just over 2 years old . I never kept battery anywhere but inside my heated and cooled house. I tried hold the button in to take it out of possible ship mode , nothing happens

I only mentioned the mileage because with 300 miles you probably haven't used your charger much. At the time, I was thinking that the problem was in the charger. Not anymore.

The fact that you are not seeing any charge at all do point the problem towards the battery. I cannot wrap my head around the semi-integrated battery which consists of multiple cells would totally lose 100% of it's charge. Logic dictates that you should see some voltage when you put a meter to it.

I read somewhere that a li-ion charger will think the cell is dead if the voltage falls below the minimum charging voltage and the charger will not charge.

I tested my charger by turning it on but I did not plug the charging cable to the battery. The charger's LED shows green.

I think maybe it's time to seek professional help. Depending on where you are, I'd look for a battery repair place instead of electric bike repair. Most likely a battery repair shop will have a variety of test equipment than an e-bike shop.

I'd bring both the battery and the charger.

250 miles over 3 years. Seemed quite a low mileage. How often have you charged your battery?

It has been a long time and I vaguely remembered the sequence of events. But there was an occasion where I thought I saw green light instead of red light when I started charging my battery. Obviously it was not what I expected to see so I stop charging. But one thing I remembered was that the bike was parked outside and there were frost on the ground. So I decided to wait a couple of hours while the battery warms up a bit and try charging again. This time the charging light was red. BTW while at work the bike is parked inside my office where there are electronic equipments therefore it's usually warmer than room temperature.

I wonder if extreme temperatures played a role with your problem (heat or cold). Where were you storing it? Have you tried charging again?

Lastly, when I assembled my bike, somehow the ship mode was not working but it seemed to be working now. So I tried testing the ship mode. Once on ship mode, pressing the Battery button will not activate the Charge level lights and no power is supplied to the motor. If I turn the bike On, the motor spins but the battery remains in ship mode.

Quote from: JBDLWB8 on October 18, 2024, 10:45:56 AMThe sticker which says 500w is covering a sticker that says 750w.

where was the sticker? On my City5+ there's one on the frame but I never peeled it off to reveal what is underneath. I'm just curious if that's what you meant. I thought maybe there's another one on the motor itself.

For me I am content with the speed but I wouldn't mind unlocking it if it would gain me a bit more climbing power.

I maybe wrong in this assumptions but it seemed the general consensus is that upgrading to a third party controller is the answer.

In regards to unlocking, there used to be a video but it was taken down by the owner of the forum. I found one on YT but never tested it. Use the keyword "How To Increase Top Speed on Rad Power Bikes RadRover 6+Rad, City 5 Plus, and RadRunner 3"

For me. I think spending $49 CDN is a bit much for a single port charger. Also I am limited by the location of the charger whereas a power bank can be mounted anywhere.

I would guess spinning your motor for a long time would generate a lot of heat.

My RC5+ manual says store the battery with a charge between 40-75%. Therefore while it's not winter yet. Why not go out and ride it to 75%. When I was young, I remembered a trick we've used to drain big capacitors by connecting a 100 watt lightbulb to it. But now with sophisticated electronics this method is not be a good idea.

"For a peak battery performance over time, store the battery at approximately 40-75% charged (about 4 to 7 charge level lights illuminated). Check the battery's charge level monthly. If necessary, use the charger from Rad Power Bikes to charge the battery to about 40-75% charged."

I was not very happy with my ammo side cases so I've decided to mount my old Honda CBR250 top case. I thought it looked better.

I meant your install.
The picture of the shifter installed on your bike.

Can you post a picture?

Can you tell us the name of the app you are using now?
UPDATE:
Oops I did not noticed the link Onlinecompass .net Obviously you are using your phone browser while cycling.

From time to time I still used Speedometer 55 pro (they have free version too). I bought it a few years ago for my motorcycle but I also used it on my Trek bicycle. I like it because I can use my old iPhone that's not activated anymore.

To track my ebiking. I use Strava the free version. It's like a social media of cycling. Depending on your privacy settings, it shares routes of cyclists that's been around the areas you've been cycling. It tells you if you break speed record of your routes. It also allows you to pause recording if you stopped for lunch or groceries. But lately they are aggressively nagging me to upgrade to their paid subscription based service.

Thirdly I use Google Maps waypoints to plan my trips. I can visually see how steep of a slopes before I even get out of the house. Plus it gives you an approximate amount of time it's going to take you to finish your ride.

My wish is that RAD utilizes Bluetooth so that we can use our phones for display module.

Quoteauthor=vanakenm link=msg=25215 date=1719410992]
I'm thinking running boards & deckhand, but seems the deckhand can only be attached to the seat, so it works only for the kid on the front, and I'd like the one on the back to be able to hold into something too.

Anyone has advice/opinion here? Thanks!

I know I am replying to an old post but how about a back rest. It doesn't take much space, safer, And cheaper than Yepp.

 https://a.co/d/bogKxwS

Quote from: bmcnurlen1 on October 06, 2024, 08:00:30 AMI could never seem to get it tight enough to prevent the light from falling down

I had the same frustration so I got rid of the wire bracket and replaced it. First I was going to use a GoPro tripod mount but quickly found that the light mount was not compatible. I was going to cut the middle section with a coping saw to make it fit. But lucky for me I did not have to do that because I came across a "U" bracket that fits perfectly.

I have read that you can increase battery life by NOT charging to 100% if your ride style does not used up the majority of the charge per ride. My regular maximum return trips usually no more than 4 LED bars.

I am guilty of old school thinking that batteries must be charge fully every time I put it in a charger. Plus RAD recommends charging to 100% at the end of your ride.

I realized that the post was in reference to the old batteries but I assumed it pertains to the semi-integrated as well.

I liked what this member said therefore going forward I will stop charging somewhre in the 8th LED indicator.

https://www.radowners.com/index.php?topic=1001.msg5067#msg5067

Quote from: DickB on May 12, 2021, 04:40:55 PMIf you are not using the full capacity of your Rad battery when riding, you can take advantage of this characteristic and extend the life of your Rad battery. I typically ride 10-12 miles per day, with minimum level (1-2) assist, and my battery capacity drops only about 20% on the battery meter. On trips into town, I ride about 15 miles at higher assist (3-4), and then use about 40% capacity. Clearly, I could charge to only 80% capacity and have ample reserve capacity at the end of my rides.
 
The Rad battery charger will on its own charge to 100% capacity.  You can charge to a lesser capacity with it by simply disconnecting the charger before it has completed a normal charge cycle

A member has installed this shifter but encountered a little problem interfering with the throttle.

I also have noticed the awkwardness of the shifter but have been ignoring it. For reasons that I do not use the shifter as much as I use the PAS. For good or bad I had gotten used to using the throttle for small hills and only use the shifter for the big hills. Therefore I do not use the shifter as much.

I am not happy with the twist throttle (too bulky) and I'm upgrading it into a thumb throttle, that will give me some spare space on my right handlebar. Maybe after that I will upgrade my shifter too.

https://www.radowners.com/index.php?topic=9812.msg24955#msg24955

Quote from: enzo.moscoso on April 16, 2024, 10:42:42 AM- Shimano Altus SL-M315-7R 7-Speed Right Rapidfire Plus Shifter
Way better ergonomics compared to the stock shifter. Hard to mount because of the throttle, there's really only one position it can be mounted in. Had to bend one of the levers slightly to clear the throttle. Not perfect but way better than stock.