I got the LCD Upgrade for my RadExpand 5, which did come with (I think) rubber spacers.

You could just cut up an old inner tube or some neoprene strips from a rubber boot or some such for DIY spacers. If from an inner tube it may require 1 1/2 wraps, maybe 2 to get good compression.

Or use many wraps of cloth-type hockey tape (aka "friction tape"). It's my new favourite secret weapon.

Also, maybe spiral cable wrap, like this stuff, in different colours and diameters:

I'm not absolutely sure if it would be thick enough.
It's also handy (no surprise) for tidying up wiring and brake cable bundles.

Quote from: i100 on January 10, 2025, 09:41:50 AMDid you check the pedal assist sensor if it's dirty, misaligned, or broken.

Umm... pearlbeer says "... loses power after about 10secs of PAS or throttle at any level."
The throttle power shouldn't be affected by the PA sensor, since you can use it without any pedalling.

I believe issues with the fuses would completely prevent charging or discharging (as in powering the motor) at all, but not limit either to some percentage.

I would suspect something with the BMS (Battery Management System) built into the battery.

[later]
Oh. I just noticed that you said it "sat for about a year". It's not good to keep it permanently charged to 100% while in storage, nor to let it drain to zero.

When you say "the battery won't charge past 60%", do you mean that

• the battery turns the LED green thinking it's fully charged and stops charging, but the bike's display indicates it's only 60% full, or
• does it continue to keep trying to charge it forever (indicated by keeping the charger's LED red) but when you give up, 60% is what you see on your bike's display when you turn it on?

What do the LEDs on the battery itself say when you push the test button?

Quote from: markastuart on January 06, 2025, 05:49:45 PM... I swear I once saw a forum post where one can hold the hand brake and press another button while turning it on to reset. ...

The only thing I can think of like that is described on page 44 of the manual.
If you turn the bike on (key switch) while a break handle is squeezed, you should get an error code of "Brake switch fault (or the brake was applied while turning bike on)", as indicated by PAS LEDs #0 and #2 being illuminated.
I've done that a few times by mistake. I don't recall flashing lights
Your issues seems to have nothing to do with that, so, I dunno.

[edit]
Later, I noticed this, also on page 44:

QuoteError detection
Your RadExpand is equipped with an error detection system integrated into the display and controller (see "Electrical controls and operation" on page 27 for more information). In the rare event of an electrical issue with the bike, you may see a specific combination of lights flash on the Pedal Assistance Level lights on the display. If this happens, we recommend that you cease operation, take a short video of the light(s) flashing if possible, and then go to the
Rad Power Bikes online Help Center (radpowerbikes.ca/help) for more information.

For all 5 lights flashing, it says "Error type: Communication fault"

Hmmm ... +30 Fahrenheit should be well within the limits, according to the manuals.

Does the power go completely off, killing the lights and display, or does it just stop giving power to the motor?

Quote from: AOJAMES on January 02, 2025, 10:59:59 AMCorrect. It's listed as working with the RadExpand 5 Plus which is what I have.

Uh . . . What?
The word except means that it is not compatible with the RadExpand 5 Plus (for whatever reason).

Update: Yes, they both fit, but you may have to let the handlebars stick out over the side.
We line them up so that the handlebars are in the middle, so as not to rub against the upholstery.

Is that the "Premium Headlight"? https://radpowerbikes.ca/collections/accessories/products/premium-rad-headlight-2020
It sez:

QuoteCompatibility
All Rad ebike models except:
RadExpand 5 Plus
Radster Road
Radster Trail
RadWagon 5
Rad ebike models produced before 2018.

They do not say if it's due to any mechanical mounting conflicts, or the electronics.

Quote from: RicoWarner24 on December 10, 2024, 10:17:01 AMHmmm. Well seeming impossible to determine if this is the normal rider experience or a problem. Surprised no one responded.

What? Am I invisible? - https://www.radowners.com/index.php?topic=10056.msg25897#msg25897 

14 Miles per hour is top speed for the RadTrike, right?

It's just a long shot, but maybe your right brake handle is misadjusted and activating the motor cutoff switch without you actually touching the brake handle. Twisting the throttle all the way up might be jostling (opening) that cutoff switch somehow, allowing the controller to send full power to the motor.

Just a wild-ass guess.

For trouble-shooting it would help if your trike had a meter that indicates the power consumption in Watts, but I don't think it does.

I have one of those flex-type torque wrenches, but I don't think I used it. I mostly used the supplied tool kit.
I looked at the chart just to get an idea of the relative torques. I used more torque on large diameter nuts, much less on those fastening plastic parts.

Rumour has it that a blank/uncut Honda motorcycle key will work. I don't know if this is still true.

Quote from: Panamakid on November 18, 2024, 07:13:51 AMI opened the hub and a small amount of water came out. ...

Thanks for coming back with the explanation.

I bought a Mirrcycle at a local brick & mortar bike shop to mount on the left end of my handlebar a few months ago and was a bit concerned about how durable it was if you hit it with, say, a door frame or if the bike fell over onto it. Not so much the adjustable arm, but the joint where the arm fastens to the immoveable end plug.

Today I misjudged the height of the edge of the pavement from the gravel shoulder and when I tried to steer back onto the pavement the front wheel did not climb up and I ended up laying on my left side. (I should've tried a low-speed bunny-hop.) Thankfully it was a rural back road and there were no trucks or cars following me. My wife was following me on her bike though, and I was a bit surprised at how well she took it.

Anyhow, the Mirrcycle handlebar plug took the brunt of the fall and got dragged along the asphalt a few inches at least. Once I picked it up and got seated again I just realigned the mirror and all was well. I couldn't even find a scratch anywhere on the Mirrcycle.

So, 10/10 for Mirrcycle durability.

In fact, it made out better them me, because when I got home I found that I lost a two-inch patch of skin below my left kneecap, even under my denim jeans. I will spare y'all the gory road rash photo. After cleaning that up (mostly with hydrogen peroxide) I had the presence of mind to go lightly over the general area with some electric hair clippers before applying the gauze pad and tape.

I use this one: https://amzn.to/49XVUB9 on all of my chargers (bike, power tools, lawnmower battery) to limit the amount of time the charger is on.



It's main feature is that it's a countdown timer. Once it times out, it does not repeat the next day, which makes it very different from a regular lighting timer.

If I forget about it for a few days (or weeks), no harm done.