Rad said the wheel was bad, my friend bought a new one, it didn't fix the problem, a new controller did, so this is his original wheel which is fine as the controller was the issue and fixed his issue, not the motor, so I'm selling the motor for him...

I have a Rad City 5 motor with the wiring coming out through the rotor side for sale. A friend bought a new Wheel/Motor from Rad to fix a problem. I swapped Wheel/Motor for him and still had a problem, so they sent him a new controller which was the problem. This is his original Wheel/Motor that was on the bike. I can delace it and just send the motor to make shipping easier. - Make me an offer... - Chris

JoeSoMD - Thanks for the reply - Exactly what I ran into - Ordered Wheel - Video I made showing the difference - https://youtu.be/43cZR2jKUOE?si=k_UBb96WrLZQV-HF

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I have never heard of one of those motors failing. I?m sure it has happened, but it?s a very rare occurrence.

Are you sure it?s not a controller issue? A bad controller can do exactly what you are describing.

If you can find another City 5+ bike in your area, mate it with your bike to see what happens. Put the bikes side by side and plug their motor power wire coming off their controller to your motor. If it powers your motor just fine, then you know you have a bad controller."

I contacted Rad Service Techs and gave them a link to the video, they said to replace the motor/wheel, so now it's my friend's decision on what he wants to do. If he says he's willing to buy a new motor from them, I'll try taking the motor apart without breaking anything (like I said new design) if I get it apart in one piece I'll try soldering new Hall sensors, then throw the wheel on my truing stand next to the bike and see what happens... Thanks!

"You first mentioned that it was a Rover and then said it was a City 5. Which model is it?

Parts for those motors are semi propriety. It may be hard, if not impossible to find the parts. And if you do, the quality may not be great.

Those bikes are selling for around $2,000. Why not just purchase a new rear wheel for around $500? It would be well worth it!"

I call all their bikes Rad Rovers, but it's a City 5. Yes a new motor/rim $600, but this wheel failed with under 1000 miles, so buying a new one for 1/3 of the price of the whole bike, with no guarantee that the new one will be better than the original one, doesn't instill  a lot of confidence in another $600 investment. Especially when there seems to be controller issues with these models also.

If I can get the new style motor apart without damaging it, I may be able to solder in a new Hall sensor very cheaply. Again, this design is different than earlier motors and working blind.

Also, for $600 I would prefer to throw a whole new kit at it, making it stronger and less proprietary, but it's not a true 175mm dropout and with a rigid aluminum frame, stretching it to fit a true 175mm is not an option. So, that's why I'm here seeing if I can scrounge up any helpful info. - Thanks!

"Sorry, I'm no good to you with your specific problem, but I wanted you to know how much I appreciate seeing others willing to tear down greasy mechanical things on the kitchen countertop.  I usually draw the line at the bedspread, though."


Yes! It's great to be single! =)

Just finished editing the video where I diagnosed the condition: https://youtu.be/09R8ForKmsM?si=z6vYmmPnWXeC1FQ_

Hello All, I have a friend that asked me to help him with his Rad Rover. Does anyone have any leads on where I can get info on this motor? It's off a 2-3 year old Rad City 5 Plus. It's got a bad Hall Sensor and this motor is not like the older motors. Wiring on this one comes out the brake Side instead of Drive side, so doesn't come apart like the older ones. Trying to take it further apart at this point and it sounds like the large metal plate is hitting ring gear, but I think it will actually clear it. It won't tap/hammer out like the older motors and I'm thinking I may need to use a 3-prong puller to push it through, as the magnetic hub maybe pressed in under ring gear... but I don't know for sure.

The motor runs good when I reset the battery and punch throttle with wheel off the ground, but will flash a code 24 and stop working after first stop.
So, I want to get it apart without damaging anything to try and replace hall sensor, but for not knowing the setup behind this plate and using a puller now on the Drive side, would be me driving blind at this point. Problem is I can't find anything on it on the Web. Sorry for the crappy pictures, I should have taken better ones, but I thought I was going to just be replacing the motor, so I put it back together and back on the bike to make it still ride-able. TIA