If I understand the the situation from the regulatory aspect, once you get into faster powered bikes you're into another class of vehicle which will require a license and maybe even paying for yearly tabs. You really don't want that so be happy your bike is Class 2 and not higher. To keep us in the 'non-licensed' group they try to insure that top speed will stay closer to 20 mph primarily I think for safety. Speaking for myself 20 - 22 mph is plenty fast enough.Getting up to 30 and above you're starting to hang your ass out there and asking a lot of your disc brakes along with the assumption that you can stay in control while doing hard emergency braking at a higher speed. Live to bike another day!

Quote from: Radding Along on January 13, 2022, 08:07:28 PMIt's a class two bike. That means it's governed to 20mph by the Federal Government. When your bike reaches 21 or 22mph, pedal assist and throttle are abruptly cut off. So you can continue to pedal hard to achieve 30mph, but you won't get any assistance from the motor.

And to answer your question about drag on the motor after reaching 20mph, that is not the case. What you are feeling is a 60 or 70lb bike losing it's helper motor.

Sounds like your bike is operating properly according to the governent's eyes.

First of all Customer Support always seems to be extremely busy which may just be a short staffing issue. I've had better luck going to the Support page on the website and chatting when the Chat button says they're online. I had a similar but probably unrelated issue in that while riding either my Pedal Assist up or down arrows on the remote didn't work.  When they started working again they sometimes increased or decreased more than one number. Rad Tech told me that if the brakes are in any way engaged then the PA buttons will not function. This makes sense as it may prevent the brakes from being less effective. It also explains the jump in more than one level of PA when it starts functioning again.

Moparherb has it exactly right. The motor has to be turned off on the LCD Display Remote before you turn it off with the key. Moparherb calls that discharging the controller or maybe it just has that effect but it prevents screwy things from happening like the odometer reseting itself to zero. Mine reset just after 300 miles and I had just been turning everything off with the key up till that point. I searched online for a possible answer and found this forum first and news that it MIGHT be a possible defect and Rad replaced one user's LCD display (I have a RadCity4). I finally got through to Rad tech support through their online Chat and Rad said that the displays were not defective - exactly - but prone to zeroing out the Odometer if you shut down with just the key. I don't know how moparherb picked up on this (I don't see it in the manual) but Rad said to hold the middle Mode button on the remote for 2-3 seconds to turn off the display before turning the key off. I always key off and take the battery inside to recharge after a ride. I will re-post again if this solution doesn't hold up.