I use the Park Tool PCS 10.2. It supports heavy bikes including electric bikes. I have a Rad Rover 5 and it supports it just fine. I can even turn the bike upside down while on the stand. Not real cheap but the quality is fantastic. The 10.2 is the latest version which addressed some of the earlier issues. This is what I would suggest for a heavy e-bike.

The PCS-10.2 Deluxe Home Mechanic Repair Stand was designed and built using our 50 years of experience creating professional shop stands used in shops around the world. The unique three-point leg system and stout adjustable uprights create an extremely solid platform capable of handling bikes up to 80 lbs. (36kg).

Yes it will work fine. Tire tubes expand quite a bit beyond the listed sizes when aired up. You should have no problems with the combination you have mentioned. It will also be just a tad lighter by using the smaller tube..

On my RAD 5 I had to unloosen the screws on the attachment bracket and move the bracket down about 1/4". The battery was striking the frame of the bike when I was pushing it upward for removal. Now it clears the frame and I have no issues. I also put petroleum jelly on the bracket and some electrical contact grease on the connectors which also helps in removal and replacement.

You can just do a google search for 26"x4" fat bike tires and you will get a lot of sites and good information on different brands and tread designs that fit your riding style. They usually catagorize them  based on offroad, agressive, fast rolling, multi purpose etc. The cost is usually somewhere between 70 to 120 dollars per tire. I just ordered a set of Maxxis Minion 26x4 for my Rad Rover off of Amazon. Good luck..

Concerning the mirror issue I have Bar Mitts on my Rad Rover as listed above... on the Bar mitts mine came with what I would call a small patch like square of material that is sewn into the end of the bar Mitt where your grip plug sits.. I simply took a knife and made a cut in this patch and fitted my bar end mirror shaft through that incision and on into the handle bar opening..I am not sure about mounting any type other than bar end mirrors though.. works great on my bike though..

I purchased a set of the Bar Mitts before Rad came out with their own. The Bar Mitts work OK on the Rad Rover, however it is a little tight in there with your gloved hands and all the levers shifters etc.. the Mitts fit tight over the shifters, which sometimes cause minor problems with shifting, but you learn quick how to compensate and make it happen. I can usually wear light cotton gloves down to about freezing temps, which makes making the shifting and PAS changes go pretty well. Sounds like Rad has it figured out though..

Welcome to the club...hopefully this site with add some insight into your new purchase..

Quote from: dmann on December 21, 2020, 07:24:15 AM
Thanks so much for your input, I'm thinking along the same lines as you in that the Rover would handle better on any off-road surfaces, and the mini be best as a comuter or light dirt path riding.  I do have a light trailer I can haul the Rover on so that simplifies getting it to parks and such.
Also how is the rover on streets as im sure I'd like to do some town touring just as much ad park trails??

With the large tires the Rad Rover is great on city streets because it rolls over cracks and other small imperfections most street have. But it can also handle gravel alleys, old parking lots etc and give you a smooth ride...

Well your question brings up some additional questions, however I have a Rad Rover and I would say if had to haul a bike to a riding location all the time the mini may be a better bike. With that said if you have a heavy duty bike carrier designed for the Rad Rover and can physically handle an 80lb bike I would say I would prefer the Rover.
   I ride a lot of off rode single track MTB trails, not black diamond or down hills or nothing like that, just mostly nice flowing single track trails and usually ride around 12-14 miles of trails. With the PAS set at 1 or 2 and running in 1st or 2nd gear I can do 14 miles and use only about 20% of then battery on the Rad.  The size of the Rad tires and its overall length makes it very easy to handle on all types or terrain, when on the trails I usually air down to 14psi...
    I would have to assume that the mini with the smaller tires and shorter length would not handle as well and would be easy to oversteer when getting into more difficult terrain. But it would be lighter and more responsive on normal flat hard pack surfaces, dirt, gravel or asphalt..
     It will always boil down to the type of riding you are going to do...don't get to wound up on the distance the battery will take you, most of the time you will want to stop long before the battery runs out.,. Buy the bike according to the type of riding you will be doing mostly and how you will have to transport it. I like to ride more off road so the Rad Rover suits me perfect, but if I commuted all the time I may have went with the mini or the cruiser style Rad.. I have had no problems with my Rover and I ride it pretty hard off road, so I am very happy with my purchase..
      When the price of actual electric MTB bikes comes down in price in a few years I will probably purchase one of those and use the Rover for more city and county road riding.. good luck ,,

I ended up getting a pair of Bicycle bar mitts. They fit over the controls of my Rad Rover 5 very well and I can still get to the brakes, controller and the throttle with no problem. I can wear thinner gloves and be very confortable.
Link to Amazon: https://amzn.to/3qR9DSn

I purchased one of this plug in dial timers and I plug the charger into that. Then I set the timer to turn off in about 6-8 hours. I tend to follow the owners manual in regards to the battery because I believe they know more than I do about their product. Good luck and enjoy your Rad...

Quote from: jbfoster on October 14, 2020, 10:23:45 PM
I got the RadRover 5. I was a little disappointed in the power. I find it a bit weak for a $1,500 bike. No power for hills. I think it's even under powered on level ground. Maybe I expect to much. The only way to get more torque would be to spend a couple hundred on a controller / display upgrade. I may just do that once the warranty is up.

Jim
[/quote,  Just a thought regarding a power upgrade, if in fact the Rad 750 watt motor is in fact a 500 that is a 750 wanna be, then if a different controller is installed to increase the power to an already increased motor, would that cause the motor to perform at a level it is not designed to perform at, which could lead to excessive heat buildup and possible early failure.  One would think a total motor and controller upgrade would be safer..

That's what I call great customer support..

Quote from: Explorabook on September 30, 2020, 05:12:12 PM
A product I can't recommend enough is Stans No Tubes https://www.notubes.com/shop/tubeless/sealant

I have been using it on all my bikes both with tubes and without for years never had a flat and I ride everywhere I have had nails, glass shards, metal pieces in the tire but never a flat thanks to Stans.

When I received my RadRunner in June I had no Stans and it was out of stock everywhere so I was riding for months without Stans and sure enough, a flat caused by a staple.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs&t=4s&ab_channel=Stan%27sNoTubes

Thanks, I will look into this option also...

Quote from: Jr Samples on October 01, 2020, 05:58:22 AM
What about Tannus Armour Inserts? I have them but have not had a chance to install them yet. (Just got our Rovers this week 

There are several YouTube vids out there that tout them and all are very positive. They are a bit more expensive than the other option though. 

https://tannusamerica.com/pages/tannus-armour

I have been going over you- tube videos on tire protection and at first I was thinking about slime and the Mr Tuffy liners, but since seeing the Tannus Armor vids I may look into those for more protection. I still would like to get opinions on how they perform after a few hundred miles.