Help! Newly controller-upgraded Rad Runner Plus abruptly cuts out at 5000 watts

[nitwitticism]

Hello, Rad Owners Forum—I'm forever in y'all's debt and this is only my first post. Really benefitted from all the smarts here as I got serious about my first e-bike purchase this year. Hopeful you might be able to steer a little of that savvy my way to help me understand how to solve this particular challenge I'm having with my recently upgraded Rad Runner +.

Long story short, I implemented the 32a controller (via Electro Bike World: https://electrobikeworld.com/products/35a-controller-rad) and the matching display (https://electrobikeworld.com/products/kt-lcd8h-color-for-rad), and after initial concern about downtube connector pins getting compromised, have it working regularly. I've modified the settings a few times due to the problem I'll describe below, alternating between the guidance from Bolton (https://boltonebikes.reamaze.com/kb/radpower-upgrades/how-do-i-program-my-radpower-upgrade and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0F6x8V0NZQ), from YouTuber SuPRCooPR (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_NEXdUCOiY), and most recently from Sideburn Studios (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTRs7c9Kc7U), paying especially close attention to C5 and C14 attributes that I thought may be the path to solving my recurring battery issue.

The issue is that the battery cuts out regularly on hills, where anywhere between P3-P5 when exceeding 4770 watts of motor power (MOTOR W in the display)—typically a hill climb for me—the battery abruptly shuts off all power to the bike and will not recover without a charge.

What am I overlooking in my controller settings that can curb this issue?

I'm aware that what I'm probably experiencing is that the engine is no underpowered compared to the controller, and the battery's BMS is stepping in to present a bigger problem.

I didn't modify the Rad Runner Plus lightly. My issue is I live in a hilly terrain, rife with (according to Hill Attack app) 126% hills and lengthy rises, and have been trying to get my bike into commute-worthy shape for the hills it'll need to tackle. Right now, I can probably barely pull that off, staying close to the lower gears, but I'm being careful and meanwhile know that I don't have a safeguard in place to stop the Battery Management System from cutting off the bike's power at any given moment. (Incidentally, while the battery ceases to function, it only requires an hour or less of charging after a full charge and experiencing such a cut-out. I'm also concerned this is 'training' the battery poorly or potentially doing damage to it as I try to get to a better resolution.)

[a90s2cs]

5000 watts is crazy.  The most I've ever seen was 1900 and that was only for a couple seconds then leveled back down to below 1000. 

If it really is delivering 5000 watts I imagine you're hitting some kind of safety cut off to protect the motor and/or battery. 

I would make sure all your connections are correct and tight first but 5000 sounds like a faulty controller.

[Tony]

As a90s2cs says, you shouldn't get 5000 watts from that 35 amp controller. That could be causing the problem.

[Zubedar]

Hi a90s2cs, 
      There is something seriously wrong with your controller, your 35amp controller 5000/48= 104 amps. 
If this is correct, as previously mentioned, the battery bms is shutting down for safety.  You need to contact the company that you bought the controller from.
I fitted a 35a controller to my wife's RR+ and I works like a dream,  C5 set 5.
             Good luck
                     Andrew

[a90s2cs]

After thinking about it, getting 5000w to the motor is pretty much impossible, it would blow the 40a fuse recessed in the battery housing instantly.  If that somehow didn't happen 5000w would likely fry everything between the battery and the motor including the controller.  5000w going through that system even for a second or two should give off a strong burnt electronics smell even if you didn't see any smoke.

Is it possible you're not reading the display properly? and it's really reading 500w not 5000w? If so, I would fully charge the battery since a drained battery could cause the controller to cut power to the motor to protect the battery.  Check that C14 is set to 4, a lower setting could damage the battery and a higher setting can cause it to cut power to the motor prematurely.  Then I would reset the controller to it's defaults and reprogram all the settings.  If that didn't do anything I would go through the process described below (assuming a loose connection was the problem).

Assuming the controller isn't faulty that would circle me back to the wiring either being connected wrong or not tight.  If the connector between the battery and the controller was loose and arcing there 
would be wild fluctuations in the power readings and the motor would cut off and on (but logically so should the display but maybe not).

Flip the bike upside down and take the controller off, inspect all the connections and clean them with canned electronics cleaner and/or compressed air.  Then put the stock controller back in making sure all connections are correct and tight (the connectors have arrows that line up, work in a well lit area so you can see them clearly, use a flashlight if you need to),  then do a test run around the block.  If everything worked as it should then reinstall the 35a controller, reset the display settings to default then reprogram it with the recommended settings.  If the problem persisted I would then assume the controller 
was faulty.