RadMini motor conversion

[JimInPT]

Thank you for the info.  I have been in enough bicycle accidents and I really don't want another one.  Thanks again - much appreciated.

You're welcome; as CC demonstrated in that and following videos, it's possible to do, but not with stock forks/dropouts - you'd need a strong fork setup and probably torque arms to stiffen it up even more.   And there are other considerations, like brakes capable of hauling it to a stop safely at much higher speeds.  All doable, but if it were me and if not an expert bike guy, I'd buy a bike built to those specs from the factory.

One thing I like about my 35A MiniST with hybrid-hydraulic brakes is that it's a sleeper that doesn't scream "fast bike!" but with 1,600w available it can get up and run when it needs to.

A two-wheel-drive Mini would be quite a ride, though .......

[Altema]

Altema,

So the Bolton controller is modified sine wave and the Rad is pure sine wave? If so I would defiantly notice, that would drive me nuts. Pure sine is so nice. Modified sine is audibly chunky.

Yes, the Bolton control is actually a trapezoidal waveform instead of a modified sinewave with multiple steps, but the result is similar. The Rad controller is either pure sine wave or a very fine PWM simulated sinewave.

[Altema]

Thank you for the report. It is very informative and I have so many questions.

1.  (Never Mind.  I see now that the modules are $1389 + shipping and I need at least 2, this is totally beyond my budget.) I have a question about your previous build. You mentioned Tesla batteries.  Can you elaborate on that?  Is it a good price or a good deal?  How many cells did you use?

2.  Did you use a truing jig with the wheel when you build the wheel?  Are there services out there that would build a wheel for us less talented people?

3.  Do you think you can attach a front geared hub to a Rad (I own the Rad Mini ST2).   It would be nice to put a throttle only front hub on my Rad and use it when I need an extra boost.

The batteries are 56 cell (4 strings of 14 cells). One is a Hailong style from UPP which is now $526, and replaces the stock battery. The other battery is from Brick Lithium and fits in a rack bag, and it was a gift from a YouTuber.

For the wheel, I measured it before the change so I could center it properly, then put it back on the upside-down bike and put cable ties almost touching the rim to true it. Most bike shops could do it, but many are afraid of e-bikes.

For the second motor, see JimInPT's advice! Citizen Cycle did it (with a little input from me on the side 😉), but he used a fork made for it. As for me, I preferred to have one motor with a lot of power, and it's working out well and much lighter.

[Eric7]

The batteries are 56 cell (4 strings of 14 cells). One is a Hailong style from UPP which is now $526, and replaces the stock battery. The other battery is from Brick Lithium and fits in a rack bag, and it was a gift from a YouTuber.

For the wheel, I measured it before the change so I could center it properly, then put it back on the upside-down bike and put cable ties almost touching the rim to true it. Most bike shops could do it, but many are afraid of e-bikes.

For the second motor, see JimInPT's advice! Citizen Cycle did it (with a little input from me on the side 😉), but he used a fork made for it. As for me, I preferred to have one motor with a lot of power, and it's working out well and much lighter.

Thank you for the information.  I think my warranty does not run out until Nov.  I might take the lazy way out and just buy another Rad Battery.  Or I might make some modifications.