500 mile review update Radster Road

[RADsterBID]

Still smiling. Added an Ergon ST Evo Core saddle. Much better cushioning for the greenbelt root bumps and mild washboard dirt roads. The Ergon saddle is narrower than the stock saddle and much more comfortable.

Added two zip ties to each loop on the rear bag. I have the small RadPower rear basket and bag. The bag attachment straps were not sufficient enough to prevent the bag from bouncing upward. I added a piece of ~5mm foam liner to bottom of the bag. My thought is that as the items in the bag move around when underway their wear and jostling will be dampened by the foam and the bag bottom will not be abraided. I carry an iPhone inside a foam envelope in the bag as well so I am attempting to dampening this item as well.

I carry a spare tube, road side tool kit with 3 extra zip ties, a pump, a ~5mm x 2M braided wire cable, 3# Master combo lock. This light weight lock is for when I stop and can keep eyes on the bike or use a restroom along the ride. I would not recommend this lightweight lock for an unattended bike left in a public location.

I ride with a Dinotte light front and rear, yellow in daylight, white at night.

Nothing has come loose or fallen off the bike. Small amount of intermittent rear brake squeal, especially if I only apply the rear brake without the front brake as well. I need to loosen the rear caliper and realign it with the brake applied to solve eliminate the squeal.

I am riding predominately in Mode 2 & Power Level 2. I can easily ride 55+ miles in these settings. I use a 100w Renogy solar panel to charge a Renogy power bank. I then use the power bank to recharge the bike battery and the Dinotte lights. I now have an off-grid e-bike.

I have been inflating the tires to 45 psi. I will now ride the bike at 35 pi's for a while to see if I can dampen the ride a bit.

I am thinking about how to relocate the small metal basket rearward about 2". I want more clearance between my rear end and the front of the metal basket. I do not hit the metal basket but I do feel the nylon basket rubbing.

 If you had fabricated some type of bracket to accomplish this relocation, please post info. 

My initial thought is a 3D printed carbon fiber PETG bracket with two holes that I can bolt to the basket and then bolt to the bike rack. This bracket would allow me to mount the basket more rearward. I am reluctant to drill new holes in the basket as there would not be sufficient edge distance clearances for any additional holes.

[jastewart325]

for relocating the rear basket, this guy has exactly what you want and will send you a kit for around $30, If I remember correctly. He also has a video on YouTube if you want to do it yourself. He was very helpful responding to my questions. I ended up using zip ties to secure the rear--don't remember exactly what the problem was.

     poprivetchannel@gmail.com
     
     YouTube: https://youtu.be/XsImYrGWW_c

[RADsterBID]

Thanks for the information on relocation of the rear basket, PERFECT!

[RADsterBID]

I based my version of the rear small basket 3-1/2" rear-ward relocation on this idea.

I used 3/4" x 1/8" X 13-1/2" aluminum instead of 1" wide material and stainless steel (SS) 5mm fasteners, four SS 5mm lock nuts. I had all of these items other project.

I drilled a 5mm hole in each of the small basket rectangular bottom members. These new holes in the small basket were aligned with the existing rearward threaded holes on the bike rack.
 
The bike rack original forward threaded holes were used to secure the 3/4" aluminum to the rack.

The original 4 holes in small basket bottom members were used attach the basket to the new aluminum pieces. I used 5mm stainless cap head steel bolts and nylon lock nuts.

The two aluminum pieces were painted black before installation.