Rover Step-Thru Upgrades

[Altema]

Oh thanks!  Front hub motor?..not sure I understand what part you're referring to.

On a previous post, you wrote "Now, given that I have a 1000w hub motor in rear, AND a 1000w hub motor in front, I may be stretching it a bit"
I assumed you were going for all wheel drive!

[spyder918]

Oh thanks!  Front hub motor?..not sure I understand what part you're referring to.

On a previous post, you wrote "Now, given that I have a 1000w hub motor in rear, AND a 1000w hub motor in front, I may be stretching it a bit"
I assumed you were going for all wheel drive!

Oh I don't think that was me.  I just have the one stock motor in the back.

[how]

I have a Canadian 2020 RadRover fat tired step through with the upgraded bolton Lcd & controller.
It's stock setting listed the L3@0  &  the L4@0. Some American videos on adjusting the controller for erratic speed readings have recommended trying L3@1  and  L4@5. I was doubtful about this especially for the smaller Canadian 500w motor but I tried it.
While that change didn't seem to make any appreciable difference, my controller will now not let me reset the L4 back to L0.
I am obviously not recommending anyone else try this in case the same thing happens to them
but has anyone else already had this experience and been able to correct it again?
I've gone back through Boltons and the manufactures instructions but nothing seems to indicate how to correct this.

[spyder918]

I have a Canadian 2020 RadRover fat tired step through with the upgraded bolton Lcd & controller.
It's stock setting listed the L3@0  &  the L4@0. Some American videos on adjusting the controller for erratic speed readings have recommended trying L3@1  and  L4@5. I was doubtful about this especially for the smaller Canadian 500w motor but I tried it.
While that change didn't seem to make any appreciable difference, my controller will now not let me reset the L4 back to L0.
I am obviously not recommending anyone else try this in case the same thing happens to them
but has anyone else already had this experience and been able to correct it again?
I've gone back through Boltons and the manufactures instructions but nothing seems to indicate how to correct this.

I'm not sure which settings those are on a Canadian version, but I was having the same issue with my speedo also and Bolton suggested to
make these adjustments below.  After making the adjustments, the erratic speedo isn't AS bad but it's still not perfect.  I switched it back to the settings I had as these settings they
gave me cuts down on the instant torque.  Hope this helps you.

P5=0
C3=1
C5=2
C14=1

[Altema]

It's stock setting listed the L3@0  &  the L4@0. Some American videos on adjusting the controller for erratic speed readings have recommended trying L3@1  and  L4@5. I was doubtful about this especially for the smaller Canadian 500w motor but I tried it.
While that change didn't seem to make any appreciable difference, my controller will now not let me reset the L4 back to L0.

Are the Canadian controller setting labeled differently? The US versions have the basic settings like speed limit and wheel size, then the five different "P" settings, then the 14 different "C" settings.

I'm assuming they are the same as the "C" settings, which on my US bike are currently set to
C3=8 (Power Assist Ratio Gear Initialization Mode, O - Bootup PAS level to last used.
C4=3 (Handlebar Function Setting Mode. 0 - 5) Full range throttle at any speed or PAS level.

The factory manual for the display does not even mention C4 having a level 5. I see it being an option on mine, but don't want to try it now! Does it let you change the C4 number, but not let you save it? Or does it not even allow that?

You may want to contact Kyle at Bolton. He's a great guy, and if anyone knows the answer, it would be him.
As a last resort, write down all your current settings, then reset the display by setting parameter C10 to Y for yes, then holding down the middle button for 2 seconds. This will reset your display to the factory settings (according to the manual), then you can reprogram everything from scratch.

[Vinz]

Thanks for the interesting post, spyder918!
I'm interested in the the Bolton controller/display upgrade too, but I don't understand how you got it to fit on the Rover Step Thru. It seems to me that there's not enough room with the rear fender being so close. Is it possible to post a side view pix of the seat post that would show your installation?
I'm a new member here - so if this has been covered previously, I apologize.
Thanks!

[JTK77]

Wow you really ARE a party pooper!  I imagine you wear a helmet, shoes with steel toes, motorcycle leathers, gloves, and wrist, elbow and knee guards when you ride your bike!  With all due respect, sir, my bike has a class 2 sticker on it, and I am CERTAIN few cops would have any idea what that means, and how it may apply to an ebike, and the law, and NONE could tell the difference between a 750w and 1000w motor, visually (nether can I!).  Additionally, for your edification, a 750w motor and a 1000w motor likely will compete directly in speed.  More watts does not equal more speed, it equals more torque!  If you want speed, you increase the voltage.  As I have explained, I ride on the beach (legally), and the extra umph of the 1000w motor gets me through soft sand much better, and does so with no noticeable increase in speed.  Now, given that I have a 1000w hub motor in rear, AND a 1000w hub motor in front, I may be stretching it a bit, but heck, for me, that is the fun in this sport/hobby/pasttime.    Interestingly, even RAD advertises their motor as 1000w, and so I can say that i have the same wattage motor as the manufacturer states is on stock bikes!  You enjoy yourself, safely, and I will do the same!  I bet I have more fun, though!

Do yourself a favor and buy a true 1000w Baffang hub motor...

How about the issue of legality for those of us who live in the United States?

In 2002 US law HB 727 was enacted by Congress and defined "low speed electric bicycles (like the ones currently sold by Rad Power Bikes in the US) as non-motorized vehicles not subject to laws requiring licensing, insurance and helmet use (among others) as long as they had electric motors of less than 750 Watts (~1 horsepower) which couldn't propel them at more than 20 MPH on a paved level surface with a 170 pound rider solely on motor power alone.

15 U.S. Code § 2085 - Low-speed electric bicycles and 16 C.F.R. Part 1512 went further in defining legalities, particularly as they applied to manufacturers. These later regulations might leave a bit of leeway in terms of what kind of modifications individuals may make to their bikes after they buy them, BUT THE 750 WATT/20 MPH MAXIMUMS ARE CAST IN STONE, anything more is a moped, motorcycle or some other kind of motor vehicle subject to all laws governing those classes and their operators.

Our Ebikes might be very hard to get licensed as road legal motor vehicles as their construction and and components might not meet the more stringent performance/safety testing requirements of those higher speed machines. 

Violations can get very expen$ive, and result in confiscation of contraband Ebikes in some localities.

Sorry to be a party pooper, it's just the law (and our cohorts in Canada and Europe are faced with even lower limits).

So why do 100 Watt motors exist? They would be legal for use on private property (your back yard or 5000 acre ranch in Montana) or by the military or other government agency. The MIGHT be legal for use "off road", on public/BLM/OHV park lands in some states if not specifically excluded from certain areas. The federal laws just prohibit their use on public roads, and most state laws would exclude them from use on most public trails as they would not be covered by the non-motor vehicle exemptions sometimes granted to Ebike classes like 1 or 2.

G062.1000 is faster winded motor compared to G060 series (even if compared to fastest winded 6 turn version).
I have the 1000w motor runing 60v 40A at the moment.
Also 1000w motor is legal where I live under EU legislation.