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Brake light stays on, no power. Sensor screws loose

Started by Franco, August 26, 2023, 06:16:02 AM

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Franco

I don?t even know if I?m describing it well.

I noticed the little hand-tighten screws next to the left brake lever looked very loosened. They sure weren?t where they used to be.

I had just pulled the cable tighter down by the brakes, since the levers almost touched the handle to fully engage. Done this many times.

Now, when I let go of the left brake lever completely, and it springs back open, the brake light stays on and I have no power.

I currently have a piece of tape to keep that brake lever from springing open quite all the way, the brake light stays off, and I have power.

Not a long-term solution.

I suspect it has to do with those hand-screws.

Suggestions ?

I also have an odd sort of mewing sound in the front , OOooooo. Off and on, inconsistent, not in conjunction with wheel rotation. Doesn?t seem to happen at higher speeds.

handlebar

I probably don't know the answer to the problem, but what model to you have?

inoxa

The little hand twist screw is to tighten the cable. it is 1 of 2 places to hand tighten. The other one is on the brake caliper.

The noise you are hearing is one brake pad touching the rotor disc.  Very common problem but easy to fix.  From the inside of the wheel where the pad touches the rotor is adjustable with an allen wrench.  The other side is adjusted either by the cable twist screw or by pulling the wire tighter with pliers and an allen wrench.  So when you adjust the brakes both sides have to be adjusted.  Also make sure your disc is true - meaning not bent or binding.  You can adjust the disc with your hands if necessary just be sure to clean the disc of your hand oils.  You will know if it is not true if you hear the noise occasionally when it hits that spot. 

When it is time to replace the pads you will notice one pad will wear fast then the other side.  I have pinched a penny and only replaced just one pad from time to time instead of both. 

As far as the spring goes I am not picturing it.  But I think once you adjust the brake pads properly you can tackle the spring.


handlebar

#3
Quote from: Franco on August 26, 2023, 06:16:02 AM
I don?t even know if I?m describing it well.

I noticed the little hand-tighten screws next to the left brake lever looked very loosened. They sure weren?t where they used to be.

I had just pulled the cable tighter down by the brakes, since the levers almost touched the handle to fully engage. Done this many times.

Now, when I let go of the left brake lever completely, and it springs back open, the brake light stays on and I have no power.

I currently have a piece of tape to keep that brake lever from springing open quite all the way, the brake light stays off, and I have power.

Not a long-term solution.

I suspect it has to do with those hand-screws.


I guess you're talking about the adjustor. There's also one on the caliper. Screwing the barrel out tightens the cable. The nut locks the barrel after adjustment. If both barrels are out pretty far and the cable is still loose, you screw the barrels in, loosen the screw that pinches the cable on the caliper lever, and pull more cable through.

The problem is the switch, not the cable adjuster. The switch adjuster is beside the cable adjuster. I've never had to adjust one. It appears to be locked by a tiny allen screw. Before turning the adjustor, maybe you should unplug the connector a few inches away, so the cord won't get all twisted.

Franco

Quote from: handlebar on August 26, 2023, 06:22:45 AM
I probably don't know the answer to the problem, but what model to you have?

2019 mini step thru

Franco

Quote from: inoxa on August 26, 2023, 07:51:34 AM
The little hand twist screw is to tighten the cable. it is 1 of 2 places to hand tighten. The other one is on the brake caliper.

The noise you are hearing is one brake pad touching the rotor disc.  Very common problem but easy to fix.  From the inside of the wheel where the pad touches the rotor is adjustable with an allen wrench.  The other side is adjusted either by the cable twist screw or by pulling the wire tighter with pliers and an allen wrench.  So when you adjust the brakes both sides have to be adjusted.  Also make sure your disc is true - meaning not bent or binding.  You can adjust the disc with your hands if necessary just be sure to clean the disc of your hand oils.  You will know if it is not true if you hear the noise occasionally when it hits that spot. 

When it is time to replace the pads you will notice one pad will wear fast then the other side.  I have pinched a penny and only replaced just one pad from time to time instead of both. 

As far as the spring goes I am not picturing it.  But I think once you adjust the brake pads properly you can tackle the spring.


Thanks for the insights. Very helpful

Franco

Quote from: handlebar on August 26, 2023, 05:43:05 PM
[quote author=Franco link=topic=9554.msg23393#msg23393 date=1693055762
I don?t even know if I?m describing it well.

I noticed the little hand-tighten screws next to the left brake lever looked very loosened. They sure weren?t where they used to be.

I had just pulled the cable tighter down by the brakes, since the levers almost touched the handle to fully engage. Done this many times.

Now, when I let go of the left brake lever completely, and it springs back open, the brake light stays on and I have no power.

I currently have a piece of tape to keep that brake lever from springing open quite all the way, the brake light stays off, and I have power.

Not a long-term solution.

I suspect it has to do with those hand-screws.


I guess you're talking about the adjustor. There's also one on the caliper. Screwing the barrel out tightens the cable. The nut locks the barrel after adjustment. If both barrels are out pretty far and the cable is still loose, you screw the barrels in, loosen the screw that pinches the cable on the caliper lever, and pull more cable through.

The problem is the switch, not the cable adjuster. The switch adjuster is beside the cable adjuster. I've never had to adjust one. It appears to be locked by a tiny allen screw. Before turning the adjustor, maybe you should unplug the connector a few inches away, so the cord won't get all twisted.
[/quote]


Thanks. I think I understand you. I?m handy in some ways, but not confident here. I?ll try your suggestions, and thanks!

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