Radwagon Controller and Display Upgrade

[Dennis Watkins]

It's on the bottom of page 36 - 38 in the doc.

CD8 instrument L parameter definition
1. L1 parameters are applicable to the automatic under voltage controller. The
default of the factory L1 is 0.
1.1 L1=0, the automatic undervoltage controller can automatically select the under
voltage value according to the battery voltage.
1.2 L1=1, the undervoltage value of the automatic undervoltage controller is confirmed to be 20V.
1.3 L1 = 2, the under-voltage value of the automatic under-voltage controller is forcibly confirmed to be 30V.
1.4 L1 = 3, the under-voltage value of the automatic under-voltage controller is forcibly confirmed to be 

L2 parameter is suitable for the super high speed motor controller. The default of the factory L2 is 0.
When the parameter P1 parameter is greater than 255, the L2 parameter is enabled. Combined with P1
2.1 L2=0, the P1 parameter is set as the calculated value.
2.2 L2=1, the P1 parameter is set as the 1/2 of the calculated value.

L3 parameter is applicable to the dual mode controller. The default of the factory L3 is 1.
3.1 L3=0, the controller only uses the no Holzer mode when the motor Holzer fails.
3.2 L3=1, dual mode controller selects operation mode according to system optimization.

[Dennis Watkins]

I wanted to share my install. I still haven't removed the stock controller due to difficulties. Also need to get some black zip ties. However, by installing in this location, I didn't need to use an extension cable. I also did additional testing over the weekend and messing with the settings I can't seem to get beyond 25.4 mph. This is just cranking the throttle while on kick stand. Changing tire size is pretty much the same except if you change to 29ers. Then it actually jumped to 27ish. Which is odd. I didn't ride it on smaller tires with my phone speed to see if I could actually get it to go faster. I had limited time. 

[Hesedguy]

How are things running for you guys now that it's been a year+. I'm very interested in getting the upgrade kit for my 2019 Radwagon. I want a little more oomph off the line to get around town and was thinking to start with this kit. Perhaps upgrading to a geared motor if it isn't enough.

[Ddaybc]

Hesedguy do you have a RadWagon3 or RadWagon4 as the RadWagon4 already comes with a geared hub motor?

[Hesedguy]

It's a 2019 so RadWagon 3.

[Rjbur007]

It's been a while....

I think I've said it in a few messages but maybe not here. 

I have better off the line response, not amazing skid the tires, but a little better pickup. 

My high end hits a brick wall as the 2018 Direct Drive motors are actually 500 watt that peek at 750.  Feel cheated by Radpower Bikes. 

Yes you can get the motor to pull more watts / current but that does NOT translate into speed.  I have seen up to 850 to 900 + being pulled by my motor but all I get is a louder motor that pull more power from my battery wearing it down faster and no extra speed or torque.

I once overheated a battery and it shutdown.  Had to swap the battery to let it cool down as it came back with no issues.  So I'm assuming the BMS safety system shut the battery down to save it.

I adjusted my settings to throttle the controller to provide no more than about 800 watts peek. 

NOW Bolton Ebikes offers a 1500 watt wheel and motor upgrade that requires yet another display and controller as part of the kit.  I asked and they said no they would not sell me just the motor and that I had to buy the whole kit.

So of you ask me NOW / TODAY would I buy the kit I purchased I would say NO. 

Save up and buy the 1500 watt wheel motor controller and display kit.

You will NOT get wow speed or power form the worthless direct drive motor.

Rich


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[Hesedguy]

Thanks for the update. I almost bought the 1500W motor kit, but I questioned whether that would really do what I was hoping for. My plan as it stands it to try the upgrade by itself, and if that isn't enough I've got my eye on a wheel with geared hub from either Ebikeling.com or Ebikekit.com.

[Rjbur007]

Thanks for the update. I almost bought the 1500W motor kit, but I questioned whether that would really do what I was hoping for. My plan as it stands it to try the upgrade by itself, and if that isn't enough I've got my eye on a wheel with geared hub from either Ebikeling.com or Ebikekit.com.

Well for me I wanted much faster of the line performance, a bit of increased speed, say to maybe 30 mph and more power / torque on the hills.

All I achieved was a little better response from the the motor when peddling or using the throttle and just 1 to two mph increase.  I had to limit the controller not to burn out the direct drive motor and not to exceed the wall where more watts only achieved less range.

If you plan on replacing the direct drive motor with another of your choice, then the controller and display upgrade would be good.  Of your expecting to be wowed by the replacement using the existing direct drive motor you will be discounted. 

That said, you have if you can indeed ID a replacement motor alone that would with the 2018 series I'd be interested since I don't need 1500 watts.  I'd appreciate a true 750 or 1000 watt geared hub motor with more torque for the hills. 

I'm also looking to replace my front fork with a suspension fork.


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[Subdude]

Finally got the BoltOn/Area 13 rad upgrade kit with 1500W motor installed and configured on my 2018 Radwagon. I had to replace the PAS sensor so I had to change C1 value to 7 but if you use the stock sensor keep it at 1. The following are the settings I successfully used using stock battery;

LIM: 72
DIM: 26
UNT: 3
P1: 46
P2: 6
P3: 1
P4: 0
P5:15
C1: 7 (1 for OEM sensor)
C2: 0
C3: 1
C4: 0
C5: 06
C6: 3
C7: 1
C8: 0
C9: 0
C10: N
C11: 0
C12: 4
C13: 0 (this is for regen braking. I havent played with this too much but Bolton tech said the DD motor does not regen. Your results may vary 0= OFF)
C14: 2
L1:0
L2:0
L3:1
L4:5