Semi-integrated battery fuse replacement

[DickB]

Hey guys. I followed the procedure show in one of the posts where you only cut a slit in blue plastic on the one end that has the 10 amp fuse. Unfortunately I cut just a hair two far to right with razor blade and cut into ribbon wire 1/8 inch. So although with the new fuse installed and the charger light now showing red instead of the previous green, and the charger itself heating up like normal, the battery is still cold after several hours of charging. It appears I cut 2 or 3 wires of ribbon necessary for circuitry to allow incoming charge to actually charge battery. There is also no response to pushing button on battery to see charge level. Any ideas on ribbon wire replacement or patching it? Thought I might scrap insulation back on both sides of the three cut ribbon wires and try to solder small wires across to bridge but will be difficult with such thin ribbon.

Just leave it on the charger. I believe that cable is for the display on the battery only and will not affect charging.

[daver6640]

Hello,

This is my first post.  Thank you for the great information as my battery also failed.  I followed the steps outlined and it was a 30 minute job.  I will share pics of some the tools I used.  Great recommendation on a wood chisel to remove the small cap.  I had to remove both ends as it was easier to push the battery through the case.  I only pushed it a bit.

I would advise anyone trying to take their time and don't rush it.  I cut a small portion near the fuse, then used my finger to manually rip some of the blue tape off.  I wanted to avoid cutting the ribbon.   

[Radio Runner]

Boy howdy Rad has an issue here. As cool and handy as it is that the solution has been found for desperate future distressed customers I sure hope Everyone has called and registered their collective distain. Hopefully they redesign this lemon.

[Ddaybc]

Radio Runner, No doubt. A $400 to $500 dollar part replaced on warranty for a failed part that costs less than $1.50. It's common for fuses to blow and the average person can change them. I don't understand the thinking behind the design.
That has to hurt the business and their reputation for quality. Especially when one considers they don't get the old battery back to fix or repair it themselves and then resell it. Total loss for them.

[jrnelsonla@gmail.com]

The prior year models it looks like the fuse is easier to access.  So they definitely changed it for some reason.  Maybe people were putting larger fuses than they should I don't know.

I also noticed it appears on the Red Rover 5 that the battery and the charge portal on alternate side so the bike.

The charge port side could easily be redesigned by replacing the plastic cap with the port on the other side.

Wow that doesn't solve the fuse replaceability it would reduce user error some.

[jalard]

A huge thanks for the generosity of time and effort to help others. The combination of photos and tips everyone contributed saved me the $500 discounted battery price Rad offered and the recycling of a perfectly good (except for the fuse) battery.

If I can return the favor by lending a hand to someone living nearby who doesn't have the tools or isn't confident to do the repair, just send a private message. I live in the California central coast area.

[Si1Dia]

I just found this video walk-through on the Semi-integrated battery fuse replacement. Very well done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q287-kQNDsM&ab_channel=2feetNOsox

[michaelolvey]

Hello,

This is my first post.  Thank you for the great information as my battery also failed.  I followed the steps outlined and it was a 30 minute job.  I will share pics of some the tools I used.  Great recommendation on a wood chisel to remove the small cap.  I had to remove both ends as it was easier to push the battery through the case.  I only pushed it a bit.

I would advise anyone trying to take their time and don't rush it.  I cut a small portion near the fuse, then used my finger to manually rip some of the blue tape off.  I wanted to avoid cutting the ribbon.

Thank you so much. I finally talked to Rad tech support today. They told me, as I had read somewhere also, that thus new battery dud nit even have a fuse (??)
Go figure made in sense to me. I also have 2 Rad City 4 bikes and one is about 3 years old and I had blown the fuse in that one also no. Once I bought the fuse  it was a very simple 20 minute job and I was up and running again. This 5 plus commuter
battery is completely different. Rad had convinced me I had to buy a new battery now. They said nothing could be done to fix or repair it

SO, to begin with the bike came in brand new with a faulty controller straight from the factory. I am a repeat customer. It was according to  Rad customer service policy they said they could not and would not overnight  or even expedite the shipping for the faulty controller that I simply had
Received. It took a MONTH to arrive. Rad did cover the cost of the controller but the test was up to me. The closest Rad City certified repairs to me is 3 hours away.


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[michaelolvey]

Hello,

This is my first post.  Thank you for the great information as my battery also failed.  I followed the steps outlined and it was a 30 minute job.  I will share pics of some the tools I used.  Great recommendation on a wood chisel to remove the small cap.  I had to remove both ends as it was easier to push the battery through the case.  I only pushed it a bit.

I would advise anyone trying to take their time and don't rush it.  I cut a small portion near the fuse, then used my finger to manually rip some of the blue tape off.  I wanted to avoid cutting the ribbon.

Thank you so much. I finally talked to Rad tech support today. They told me, as I had read somewhere also, that thus new battery dud nit even have a fuse (??)
Go figure made in sense to me. I also have 2 Rad City 4 bikes and one is about 3 years old and I had blown the fuse in that one also no. Once I bought the fuse  it was a very simple 20 minute job and I was up and running again. This 5 plus commuter
battery is completely different. Rad had convinced me I had to buy a new battery now. They said nothing could be done to fix or repair it

SO, to begin with the bike came in brand new with a faulty controller straight from the factory. I am a repeat customer. It was according to  Rad customer service policy they said they could not and would not overnight  or even expedite the shipping for the faulty controller that I simply had
Received. It took a MONTH to arrive. Rad did cover the cost of the controller but the test was up to me. The closest Rad City certified repairs to me is 3 hours away.


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[2shay]

This is my first post, but I want to give an appreciative thanks to all of you who have contributed to solving this problem. I also inadvertently touched the key to the charging port and blew the fuse on my wife's RadCity 5 Plus Step-Throu. The small rubber cap does not stay closed on our battery charging port, which makes it even easier to short it out. I was able to replace the fuse with the battery still fully in the case. There is limited space but thanks to the excellent advice from everyone, I was able to cut the blue plastic without damaging the ribbon cable and replace the fuse with narrow needle-nosed pliers. The half-inch wood chisel worked very well for removing the u-shaped cap without damaging it. My wife is happy, and we are grateful for self-help communities like the Rad Owners Forum.

[michaelolvey]

I would love to speak speak with you a moment if possible. I did the same thing on my new Rad city 5 plus. I've had it about 2 months and so fat only have 15 miles on it. It all started because it was shipped with a faulty controller from the factory. Absolute nothing I was responsible for! I finally was shipped a new controller ( took about a month to get here), new bike came in about 9 days???
Also I had ordered and received the same day 2 new Rads. A new Rad 4 city commuter and the 5 plus city commuter.
They were my 3rd Rad bikes. First bike was purchased in 2019, a Rad 4 city commuter .....never had 1 problem with it other than blowing a 5 AH fews and repairs it and up and running in less than 45 minutes.
But due to my nightmarish experience with Rad customer service this Rad City repeat customer is no longer a Rad Customer. As a matter of fact a friend of mine has taken possession of the new Rad 4 and currently I have a Rad 5 plus with 15 miles on it for sale!!!
I've already lurched a new Pedego Commuter from a local dealer with a showroom and repair service 12 minutes from my house.
I am but mechanically inclined. I've watched someone's video on this site concerning replacing the 10 Ah fews on my 5 plus. I understand it to say remove 4 screws. I can only locate 3 screws on mine. Other than that I have about 10 minutes left to replace the fuse and put the bike on the market for sale.
So I'm asking fir some help. I'd be glad to even compensate for your time.
My email is michaelolvey@gmail.com
My cell is 205-305-5056
Thank you
Sincerely
Michael Olvey


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[JoeSoMD]

First of all... Thank you to the people who posted solutions and their experiences.

Second... people should stop beating themselves up over sticking the key into the charging port.  I can see this happening because every battery pack I've seen in the past has the key on the battery itself, and not on the frame.

The thing that bothers me is that there should be a reset-able fuse rather than having to disassemble the unit.

Love the bike... happy riding to all!

[circularflexing]

What an amazing thread. I also touched my key off the charging port but just repaired it using this thread as guidance. I just wanted to add that the hole doesn't need to be big. I dented the silicone with my knife and then carefully used pliers to open it wider. It's a bit fiddly with a small opening but it saves having to open the other end.

[Monty316r]

Hello,
does any one have the newest rad rover 6 plus battery that has the black plastic wrap, looking for fuse(fuses) 

[Ran]

Usually the fuses sold in store are for 32 volt.
Will it work on the 48 volt battery?