Semi-integrated battery fuse replacement

[DirkM]

I fixed my broken fuse with a standard automotive 12V 10A mini fuse, no issues so far.

[Sasheise]

I just recieved a warranty replacement battery for my radrover6+. Today ATTEMPTED to repair the old battery.  I removed both ends, and after significant effort,  cut through the silicone in both ends and ended up having to use an adjustable clamp and a small block to force the battery rack out of the housing.

I then cut open the ends of the BLACK plastic covering to expose the fuse - alas, there are NO FUSES! I have completely removed the plastic to expose the board and cannot find a fuse anywhere. 

Does anyone have experience with this version of the semi integrated battery? Thank you!

I have attached pictures of the board...

[Sasheise]

Hello,
does any one have the newest rad rover 6 plus battery that has the black plastic wrap, looking for fuse(fuses)

Same question- aligned with my previous post...

[DickB]

The white rectangular components with silver endcaps at either end of your circuit board are surface-mount fuses. Labeled 10A and 40A. They will require desoldering to replace.

[Radio Runner]

The white rectangular components with silver endcaps at either end of your circuit board are surface-mount fuses. Labeled 10A and 40A. They will require desoldering to replace.

Oh my! What have they done now?

[MSKuba]

so relieved...  very very happy.... to find just the 5 amp fuse was burnt out.
My battery would not charge...  charger lights were green and red and would not accept a change.... so happy it was a simple fuse.
spent hours trying to get thru to RAD service line.... waist of time.
This site helped resolve the issue.

cheers

M
Oliver, BC

[Me]

The white rectangular components with silver endcaps at either end of your circuit board are surface-mount fuses. Labeled 10A and 40A. They will require desoldering to replace.

Oh my! What have they done now?

They made it where you couldn't semi easily fix your own bike and have to wait a month for a replacement battery.  I had mine for 3 days and the battery quit working.  Thanks for all the help, but mine is the black wrap too.  If somebody comes up with a fix for this that doesnt require a soldering iron, please post.  Thanks!

[phkadel]

I repaired the battery on my Rad City 5 Plus yesterday after accidentally touching the charging port with my key apparently shorted out the fuse. Rad wouldn't replace my battery under warranty because it was "customer error". Already ordered a new battery so I had nothing to lose by trying my repair.($560! - great way for Rad to make money since, from a brief scan of the internet, LOTS of people make this same expensive boo boo...). Anyway, watched a couple of youtube videos. I only needed to remove the charging port end of the battery to replace the 10 amp mini fuse. (You do not need remove both ends and slide the battery out as one video showed. That is extremely difficult.) You need a T10 screwdriver to remove the 4 screws from the charging end cover. Two at the bottom, two more under a plastic cover that must be removed. I pried it off with a putty knife. The fuse is located in the upper left corner of the exposed end of battery. Carefully cut the inner plastic to expose the top of the fuse, remove and replace the fuse, tape your small cut closed, screw the end cover of the battery back on. Mine works fine now.

[Adams]

I repaired the battery on my Rad City 5 Plus yesterday after accidentally touching the charging port with my key apparently shorted out the fuse. Rad wouldn't replace my battery under warranty because it was "customer error". Already ordered a new battery so I had nothing to lose by trying my repair.($560! - great way for Rad to make money since, from a brief scan of the internet, LOTS of people make this same expensive boo boo...). Anyway, watched a couple of youtube videos. I only needed to remove the charging port end of the battery to replace the 10 amp mini fuse. (You do not need remove both ends and slide the battery out as one video showed. That is extremely difficult.) You need a T10 screwdriver to remove the 4 screws from the charging end cover. Two at the bottom, two more under a plastic cover that must be removed. I pried it off with a putty knife. The fuse is located in the upper left corner of the exposed end of battery. Carefully cut the inner plastic to expose the top of the fuse, remove and replace the fuse, tape your small cut closed, screw the end cover of the battery back on. Mine works fine now.

Glad to hear you were able to fix it.  And thanks for the updated instructions.  I'm waiting for Rad to make a decision on my battery RadRover 6+ warranty claim (it just quit charging for no explanation after only 2 months). Once they decide, I'll crack open the battery and try to fix it.

[DickB]

The white rectangular components with silver endcaps at either end of your circuit board are surface-mount fuses. Labeled 10A and 40A. They will require desoldering to replace.

Oh my! What have they done now?

They made it where you couldn't semi easily fix your own bike and have to wait a month for a replacement battery.  I had mine for 3 days and the battery quit working.  Thanks for all the help, but mine is the black wrap too.  If somebody comes up with a fix for this that doesnt require a soldering iron, please post.  Thanks!

Not possible.

[JimInPT]

A quality design after prototyping and testing would have put the charging port on the opposite side of the battery and maybe even at the other end of the battery as well, if the electrical design is dumb enough for an accident like this to happen at all, much less fairly frequently.

I wonder what it's like inside Rad these days?  Seems like a lot of new dumb designs, ideas and cost-reduction cheaping out (no ability to power off the bike without removing and carrying away the heavy battery, an expensive, kludgy "optional" dongle-thingie to restore the USB port that has always been standard up to this more-expensive series???) that they're hearing about from customers they spent a fortune to attract in the first place.  I'm still astounded that my MiniST2 can have its battery stolen with a blank key, but other than that it's been a great bike and I added a U-lock to prevent battery removal so even that's not really an issue, just an insult to my recovering-engineer brain.

[Adams]

I just recieved a warranty replacement battery for my radrover6+. Today ATTEMPTED to repair the old battery.  I removed both ends, and after significant effort,  cut through the silicone in both ends and ended up having to use an adjustable clamp and a small block to force the battery rack out of the housing.

I then cut open the ends of the BLACK plastic covering to expose the fuse - alas, there are NO FUSES! I have completely removed the plastic to expose the board and cannot find a fuse anywhere. 

Does anyone have experience with this version of the semi integrated battery? Thank you!

I have attached pictures of the board...

Is it the black blob in upper left of middle picture?  That looks like where the fuse is located from pics of what others have posted.  Others? pics and videos online just show the fuse without any covering.  Did they start sealing the fuses in with something?

What is your battery serial number?  I?m wondering if there Rad made some changes to the battery.

Anyone else have a guess to help out Sasheise?

[DickB]

10A charge fuse in red, 40A discharge fuse in blue.

[Adams]

10A charge fuse in red, 40A discharge fuse in blue.

Thanks - should be a sticky post with an ?Idiot?s Guide to Rad Issues.?  Couldn?t tell from the resolution on my ipad.  It is soldered in. 

[jlawrence]

bought a RadRover6 Plus for my son for his birthday...we've both had a great time riding it on the initial charge...then went to unlock the battery to charge it and when trying to unlock in my garage where it was kinda dark, I thought the charging port was the place to unlock it and immediately a spark came out. I thought I was an idiot but now see it's a very common mistake and obvious design flaw not having a simple way to replace the fuse. My main issue is Rad's response saying it's not covered and I have to spend $600 to get a new battery. I'm now seeing here that it's just a simple 10 cent fuse that can be replaced and other users are fixing it themselves. Why can't / won't Rad offer to fix the battery rather than requiring us to buy a new one? I liked this company initially but their response to this issue is very frustrating for me. I was going to buy another one but not now. Thanks to all of you for showing how to fix the battery- not sure I'll be able to figure it out but will give it a shot- otherwise I might be taking this thing to the dump I'm so pissed at them.