Anyone else think the loop under the bottom bracket is cute but dumb?

[NaturallyRC]

The first time I saw that aluminum loop awkwardly protruding from the bottom bracket at a bad angle I said, "That's going to last a week. One good drop from the sidewalk to the roadway and it's gone." I can't say for sure if it took a week (maybe two), I just know that as of today, it's missing. Sheared right off, places unknown. LOL. Rad should have shaped it like the hull of a boat (ie skidplate design) not in the form of a convenient grab handle for squared-off curbs. No biggie. I won't miss it.

[Eric7]

I agree with you.

I think it is supposed to be used when the bike is folded to avoid the front chainring from touching the ground when folded. The chainring is protected by the chain ring guard so it is redundant protection but I guess it still avoids putting stress on the bottom bracket. Since a person is supposed to be able to stomp on the bottom bracket and sometimes in a fall the bottom bracket can get a lot of stress from the pedal hitting the ground, I think the bottom bracket can handle the stress. I agree it could have been designed better.  Maybe just a tab with a hole to bolt in a piece of soft bendable metal, like the derailleur protector in the back. 

I bent the derailleur protector a few times and I just bent it back.  I suppose if it breaks, I would buy another one.  Now that is a good design.

I've seen something like the Rad Mini ST frame on other bikes ads.  I think Rad, back when they were a smaller company, did not design the whole thing and just made some changes to an existing design.

The Rad Mini ST is a very good bike.  Too bad it seems to be discontinued.  I hope to keep mine running for a long time.

[Radio Runner]

The chainring guard is made of aluminum and wont serve the same purpose for long before is bends and snaps.

[NaturallyRC]

Totally in sync with you that it's a good bike (great bike, in fact). So glad I bought mine when I did. Not a fan of the new overpriced Expando. And I get that the loop is/was meant to rest the bike when folded (tried it, previously, and it worked, though tippy). Anyway, sounds like I might be the only one who's snapped the thing off, which answers my question. (edit: see my more recent post on the top tube version) Thanks for the heads up on the derailer guard. I will keep an eye on that. Cheers...

I agree with you.

I think it is supposed to be used when the bike is folded to avoid the front chainring from touching the ground when folded...I agree it could have been designed better.  Maybe just a tab with a hole to bolt in a piece of soft bendable metal, like the derailleur protector in the back. 

The Rad Mini ST is a very good bike.  Too bad it seems to be discontinued.  I hope to keep mine running for a long time.

[NaturallyRC]

Agree. Lucky for me, the Mini step-thru (which I have) has that MASSIVE downtube that strikes the floor (log across the trail, library steps, picnic table, 50-gallon drum) about the same time as the pants protector, so I might be okay. I'll report back if it gets dinged.

The chainring guard is made of aluminum and wont serve the same purpose for long before is bends and snaps.

[NaturallyRC]

I'm just noticing how the loop integrates SO much better on the top-tube version than the step-thru (which I own). Some designer opted for one-size-fits-all, when configuring the newer model. "Yeahhhhh, that'll work."

[tom820050]

I'm also looking for


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[tyleradamek6]

Same here


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[JimL]

It is a good thing these break off easily, or I would have crashed on the tree roots on some of the mountain bike trails I ride.

I made replacement "foot" out of 14 gauge flat sheet metal.  It is about 3" high with a 1 1/4" tab folded back at the top.  It is 2 3/4" wide at ground contact.  I use a 3" hose clamp to mount it under the frame.  I loosen the clamp to remove it for riding...leaving the clamp retightened on the frame (not in the way of anything with the clamp screw above the frame tube).  I bent the tab, and shaped a little curve in it (to match the bottom of the frame tube) by hammering it over the edge of a railroad track (it makes nice curves for this).  It is very stable and solves the problem.  Do NOT try using anything thinner than 14 gauge STEEL.

I tried to post pictures, but the system won't let me, even though they are small size files.