12v headlight just works....?.....pending catastrophe?

[madbroulton]

I just bought a RR+ and was dissapointed in the "premium" light, I though something was wrong with it as it only had a small trapezoid of light, 10 feet in front of me...  I bought a (pair of) small LED lightbars (link below) off amazon that were listed as 9v-30v (12v) and I also bought a DC/DC stepdown converter from 48v to 12v, thinking and learning that it was essential. But today as I was installing I thought I'd try going directly to the headlight and If I ruined one LED light I'd still have another to hook up correctly... to my surprise the light works just fine, no buck/stepdown converter needed... what am I missing? does the lightbar have more than a 9-30v variable converter inside? is it a matter of time before it blows?

Now, I'm not sure that this is OK or if I'm burning the LED's up faster or if it is dangerous to do this (I cant find anything online). but it seems to be working.... Please chime in and tell me if im crazy!

Links to the Light: https://amzn.to/3FWLYZM
Converter: https://amzn.to/3wvdCsh
2 Pin Plug: https://amzn.to/3wjCUuy

[Radio Runner]

So if the Rad battery is 48v and the light is rated for a max of 30v I would venture a guess that it wont have a long service life. How long? Who knows, maybe you can tell us. I would carry a small spare handlebar mounted light just incase it dies miles from home in the dark.

[madbroulton]

That's what I assumed, "Shorter Life of Light" but I read a couple of posts that mentioned someones cousins uncles step sister, burned out the LCD/Controller light port?? I definately dont want to do that....

Seems like the BEST way is you wire in the DC/DC stepdown to the main terminals of the battery tray. BUT then you loose the on off switch of the LCD for the lights.

Also seems like I'm taking the long route to leaving it alone and just installing a handlebar flashlight for extra brightness! ~ I do love to ride in the night.

Another reason to have a better 12v system on board is that you can install a QC 3.0 charge port so you can actually charge a phone or the handlebar mounted light if needed. 

Seems like the LCD USB is only 1 amp output..  barely enought to keep your phone from going down..

[Altema]

That's what I assumed, "Shorter Life of Light" but I read a couple of posts that mentioned someones cousins uncles step sister, burned out the LCD/Controller light port?? I definately dont want to do that....

Seems like the BEST way is you wire in the DC/DC stepdown to the main terminals of the battery tray. BUT then you loost the on off switch of the LCD for the lights.

Also seems like I'm taking the long route to leaving it alone and just installing a handlebar light for extra brightness! ~ I do love to ride in the night.

Another reason to have a better 12v system on borad is that you can install a QC 3.0 charge port so you can actually charge a phone or the handlebar mounted light if needed. 

Seems like the LCD USB is only 1 watt output..  barely enought to keep your phone from going down..

You can put a small step down converter between the wiring harness and the headlight, and that should retain your stock on/off functionality.
The RR+ display USB output is only 1.5 amps max, and the LCD display for the Bolton controllers is only 1 amp. I run a converter and have a QC 3 charger for it, as my Cycle Analyst display has no USB 

[madbroulton]

Yes I've thought of that. I see a small 5amp converter that would work.  I've been noodling some ideas and am either going to leave it alone or go nutty with the 12v accessories. (That's my 12 yr olds vote;) Either way I'll post some pics when I'm done. It's pretty sweet so far.   

[CasualNerding]

I have a small rechargeable 12v lithium battery pack I use to power all my 12v lighting.

This accomplishes two things:
1. I can use 12v lighting, which gives me far more options as opposed to 48v accessories.
2. I don't have to modify the bike's wiring at all.

The pack is pocket sized, and sits in a little pouch mounted to the inside of my cargo bin.

I hope this is okay (I am not in any way affiliated, mods).  Here's a Link to what I use:
Amazon link

[madbroulton]

Thanks Nerding!   That is what it's amounting to. I bought several lights on amazon that were suppose to be 9-80v DC and a couple of 12v and oddly enough the multi voltage lights that are suppose to fall into the 48v category would not work.. They would flash once and then I had to turn the LCD controller screen off and back on to reset. I'm assuming that they were pulling too much amps. (both of the 12v 60w and 18w would stay on, but I was worried it would eventually overload the controller screen, as mentioned somewhere on radowners..) If you look at the "upgraded, premium" light from RAD the actually LED diode is TINY! The mirror lens does all the work.  SO in a round-a-bout way and a big box of stuff to return to amazon, I decided it best to just use the stock headlight and add a handlebar mounted flashlight. Plus a battery pack for anything else. 

It would'nt be hard at all to wire in a 12 v system right off the battery. BUT the hour spent and $ involved is better spent elsewhere.  AND if I sell/upgrade the bike I can take anything with me.  My kids are slightly disappointed because we had fun visions of color chasing USB LED lights and speakers and a 3.0 QC charge capabilities, and and and....

but sometimes it's best to simplify and ride...

[Radio Runner]

Madbroulton, Look into Monkey Lights if you want to still amaze the kids. They are awesome.
https://www.monkeylectric.com/