better grips for Radrunner

[handlebar]

A couple of weeks ago I began experiencing pain in tasks that required a muscle to pull my thumb in a certain direction. I checked the WWW and thought I'd torn a ligament. I took it easy on my thumb, but it got worse.

Yesterday, I palpated the area with my muscles relaxed. It's not a torn tendon but a bruised joint, where the thumb connects to a carpal bone. I could imagine only one cause: the left hand grip on my Radrunner.

Pavement around here is rough. The handgrips are designed for weight on the outside of the hand. The thumb side of the grip could transmit wicked shocks to the carpal joint.

I wrapped the grip in a folded washcloth and taped it. When I rode, the pressure was normally on the tape, but when I applied the front brake, the pressure moved to the base of my thumb. My grip was loose and padded, and I didn't hit any big bump, but it hurt. I don't know why I didn't notice earlier. I'll leave the washcloth in place and for now won't use the front brake.

Amazon has lots of grips. Any recommendations? Some clamp at both ends. Would that work on the right grip (which would have to be shortened)?

The Radrunner is primarily for the road, and bikes for the road normally have handgrips that point aft. For one thing, it keeps pressure off the base of the thumb. For another, it's easier to see past your arm in a mirror. It would also help of the bars were a little higher. If it were possible, I'd replace my Radpower bars.

[JimInPT]

I've been very happy with these on my MiniST2 for almost a year now:  https://amzn.to/3wjocUy I wanted a grippier feel over the stock faux-leather grips and these work very well for me and have some shock-absorbing ability as well.  Very comfortable; the palmrest is nice.

The split line shown is the perfect place to cut down the right grip to clear the throttle and if you clean the bar and the inside of the grip with rubbing alcohol, then let dry and spray the bar with heavy-duty hairspray, the grip will NOT move once that dries (takes a day or two to fully set up).

Pic below; I can see behind me with both mirrors; had to turn the right mirror inboard to clear a trailhead entrance between a tree and a fence.  Can still see the pretty girl on the sidewalk I just passed.   

[handlebar]

I've been very happy with these on my MiniST2 for almost a year now:  https://amzn.to/3wjocUy  I wanted a grippier feel over the stock faux-leather grips and these work very well for me and have some shock-absorbing ability as well.  Very comfortable; the palmrest is nice.

The split line shown is the perfect place to cut down the right grip to clear the throttle and if you clean the bar and the inside of the grip with rubbing alcohol, then let dry and spray the bar with heavy-duty hairspray, the grip will NOT move once that dries (takes a day or two to fully set up).

Pic below; I can see behind me with both mirrors; had to turn the right mirror inboard to clear a trailhead entrance between a tree and a fence.  Can still see the pretty girl on the sidewalk I just passed.   

Ah! Your bars are adjustable. That would help you regulate the amount of your weight on the bars. I can't do that, so I want plenty of padding on the thumb side.

Are your mirrors convex? I bought several advertised as flat before I found one that really was. Making a u-turn to review a pretty girl was embarrassing, but I had no choice. With a flat mirror, it's not necessary.

[JimInPT]

Hah!  Yes, slightly convex Mirrycle brand, which is ok for my needs, but I get your point.

[handlebar]

I've been very happy with these on my MiniST2 for almost a year now:  https://amzn.to/3wjocUy I wanted a grippier feel over the stock faux-leather grips and these work very well for me and have some shock-absorbing ability as well.  Very comfortable; the palmrest is nice.

The split line shown is the perfect place to cut down the right grip to clear the throttle and if you clean the bar and the inside of the grip with rubbing alcohol, then let dry and spray the bar with heavy-duty hairspray, the grip will NOT move once that dries (takes a day or two to fully set up).

I took the washcloth off to measure the OEM grip. The thumb part is hard. On the right, the throttle ring is also hard, but it has a bigger diameter. On yours, is the thumb part cushioned?

I may have ridden 2,000 miles without trouble. I guess once the joint got bruised, every ride made the injury worse. I wrapped the cloth around the grip about sundown yesterday, and today my thumb is much better. I guess I've found the cause of my injury.

[JimInPT]

I took the washcloth off to measure the OEM grip. The thumb part is hard. On the right, the throttle ring is also hard, but it has a bigger diameter. On yours, is the thumb part cushioned?

No, those grips I use and linked to are hard rubber.  Not hard like plastic, but very firm rubber and quite grippy, which I like.  I don't press my thumbs against the grips, they just sort of hang underneath until called upon for a PAS shift, mid-loud bell on the left and the shifter or throttle thumb activator I added on the right.

[handlebar]

No, those grips I use and linked to are hard rubber.  Not hard like plastic, but very firm rubber and quite grippy, which I like.  I don't press my thumbs against the grips, they just sort of hang underneath until called upon for a PAS shift, mid-loud bell on the left and the shifter or throttle thumb activator I added on the right.

Mine reminds me of an old-fashioned bowling ball or telephone. I ordered a pair of Wolf Tooth Fat Paws, made from a proprietary dual-density silicone foam rubber. The OD is advertised at 36mm.

It makes me think of my 1970 BMW. The throttle grip was 30mm in diameter, like before, but the throttle springs were stronger. It was fine to go around the block, but holding it open all day was no fun. I applied a layer of RTV, wrapped it in heavy twine, and applied more RTV. It lasted for decades. With a bigger diameter, I needed less force to apply equal torque. Because the grip had a larger area, I could get the necessary friction with a relaxed grip.

[JimInPT]

With a bigger diameter, I needed less force to apply equal torque. Because the grip had a larger area, I could get the necessary friction with a relaxed grip.

If you ever get a hankering to replace the controller with the 35A upgrade from Bolton or EBW, you might be pleased to know it comes with a cruise-control option, which would also greatly reduce grip strain on the throttle side for long steady rides.  I finally installed mine last week (along with the hydraulic brake calipers also from Bolton) to get ready for warmer weather and she's almost like a new bike.  Zoom-zoom and stops like hitting a wall now.

[Runningliner13]

Hello, my question to JimInPT  is the throttle power button made by yourself ?

[handlebar]

With a bigger diameter, I needed less force to apply equal torque. Because the grip had a larger area, I could get the necessary friction with a relaxed grip.

If you ever get a hankering to replace the controller with the 35A upgrade from Bolton or EBW, you might be pleased to know it comes with a cruise-control option, which would also greatly reduce grip strain on the throttle side for long steady rides.  I finally installed mine last week (along with the hydraulic brake calipers also from Bolton) to get ready for warmer weather and she's almost like a new bike.  Zoom-zoom and stops like hitting a wall now.

Thanks. It was the motorcycle that required a strong throttle twist. These days, I ignore my Radrunner throttle except to get underway. I've learned to love pedaling. I'll use PAS to sprint where there's fast traffic and intermittently on grades and against headwinds. In March I went 142 miles before recharging at an indicated 40.9 volts (41.4 actual).

I was somewhat wrong about the cause of my injury. Tonight I noticed that the bruised joint, which is part of the wrist, rests on the big part of the grip, not the little hard thumb area.

Sometimes I would coast over a series of bad bumps using my fingers to make rings around the hand grips instead of grabbing them. Most of my weight was on my lower pedal, which, being well forward of the saddle, also braced me fore and aft. A grip would seem to jump up an inch and back two inches. Of course it didn't jump back. That was my upper body lurching forward as a bump caused the bike to lose a bit of speed almost instantly.

If I'm pedaling hard, most of my weight is on the pedals, but in this case I depend entirely on  the handlebar to brace against lurching forward. That may be how I got the initial bruise, not from up and down shocks but by being thrown forward. Maybe the silicone foam grips will cushion my hands better.

[Radio Runner]

You could lower the PSI in your front by 5lbs and see if that helps with energy transfer to the grips. You can also raise your bars with a Delta stem riser. You'll get about 2 inches, any higher and you'll probably need to install new longer cables and housing.

https://amzn.to/3FQM5FW

[handlebar]

You could lower the PSI in your front by 5lbs and see if that helps with energy transfer to the grips. You can also raise your bars with a Delta stem riser. You'll get about 2 inches, any higher and you'll probably need to install new longer cables and housing.

https://amzn.to/3FQM5FW

Thanks, I ordered the extender immediately.

I'm running 30 psi. The Radrunner manual says you must keep the tires at the pressure on the sidewalls, without saying what that pressure is. It took me a year to find it on the sidewall because the white decoration was applied over it.

I was running 20 or 25, but the rolling resistance is wonderfully low at 30. That's what made me prefer pedaling.

It reminds me of Frank Bowden. In 1887, he'd made a fortune, when the doctor told him he had six months to live at 39. He suggested bicycling. Bowden bought a Raleigh at a London shop because it was much better than anything else he'd seen. Raleigh was a 7-man shop in Nottingham. He loved it so much that he toured France, Italy, and England, and his health sprang back. He bought the factory and expanded it so others could afford the sport he loved.

In the days of solid tires and unpaved roads, touring three countries by bicycle was amazing. Raleigh was producing Kangaroos, but this must have been a Rover, built under license. The quadriceps is the longest, heaviest, most powerful muscle in the body, and moving the seat aft lets you use it much better. It also lets your legs absorb bumps.

(...except those longitudinal jolts, where the sudden acceleration up causes a sudden jolt aft. I think bumps 2" high are common on local streets. By golly, I'll get my laser level and measure!)

[JimInPT]

Hello, my question to JimInPT  is the throttle power button made by yourself ?

No, I got it on eBay:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/223592231970  high-quality 3-D printed part with stainless hardware, in various colors.  Love it; hasn't loosened a bit in almost a year.  I mostly use it to blip away from a stop at intersections, especially uphill.

If you have a 3-D printer (I don't ... yet), I think there are free plans out there to make your own.

[Runningliner13]

If you have a 3-D printer (I don't ... yet), I think there are free plans out there to make your own.

No I have not , but I'm smart guy and did myself Thanks for idea ....

[Radio Runner]

Hello, my question to JimInPT  is the throttle power button made by yourself ?

No, I got it on eBay:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/223592231970  high-quality 3-D printed part with stainless hardware, in various colors.  Love it; hasn't loosened a bit in almost a year.  I mostly use it to blip away from a stop at intersections, especially uphill.

If you have a 3-D printer (I don't ... yet), I think there are free plans out there to make your own.

SWEET!, just the answer i wanted to read. Order up!