replacement controller/display for Radmission?

[handlebar]

Operating the buttons for the upgrade display on my Radmission has always been quirky. It's inconvenient, too. During the day, I turn the headlight off, and that's tricky. Meanwhile, it takes seconds before I can get motor power.

The Bolton upgrade for my other bike shows voltage, and the trip meter runs until reset. That made it easy to keep a log of mileage and voltage. On the Radmission, the tripmeter resets each time the power is shut off, and it doesn't show voltage.

The odometer and tripmeter have always seemed quirky. I verified this on an abandoned walking track that's exactly 0.3 miles. On some laps it would accumulate 3 tenths way too soon and on others way too late.

I had a Sixthreezero with the same gearless motor, which I love because it's quiet. Both are rated at 500 watts, but the Sixthreezero put out 500 mechanical watts, while the Radmission puts out only 350.

An aftermarket controller and display might be a big improvement. Where can I get one?

[DuaneL]

The 35a Upgrade works on missions (do need to limit output with c5 setting) or even the 25a from electroworld should work since you really don't want more than about 24a max output. I went different and installed a 30A kt sinewave controller which did require replacing main wire harness with a 1 to 5 cable (if you want to use the stock brake sensors you need one for 2 pin brajes, can be found on Aliexpress, but do not seem to be on amazon) I added a second set of brake sensors and custom wired the stock brake sensors for brake lights, I also had to use a adapter cable for battery and used an extension cable for Pas to allow me to mount my controller on the top tube. A link to someone who did the 35a upgrade on facebook is https://www.facebook.com/groups/629167654165317/permalink/1654203821661690

[handlebar]

The 35a Upgrade works on missions (do need to limit output with c5 setting) or even the 25a from electroworld should work since you really don't want more than about 24a max output. I went different and installed a 30A kt sinewave controller which did require replacing main wire harness with a 1 to 5 cable (if you want to use the stock brake sensors you need one for 2 pin brajes, can be found on Aliexpress, but do not seem to be on amazon) I added a second set of brake sensors and custom wired the stock brake sensors for brake lights, I also had to use a adapter cable for battery and used an extension cable for Pas to allow me to mount my controller on the top tube. A link to someone who did the 35a upgrade on facebook is https://www.facebook.com/groups/629167654165317/permalink/1654203821661690

Is that the Bolton 35A upgrade? I could try the one from my Radrunner.

[DuaneL]

Yes it is the "bolton upgrade" all the 35a upgrade controllers are the same, they are just specially manufactured kt controllers to work with the stock wiring harness of Rad power bikes

[handlebar]

Yes it is the "bolton upgrade" all the 35a upgrade controllers are the same, they are just specially manufactured kt controllers to work with the stock wiring harness of Rad power bikes

The first time I removed the back wheel from my Radmission, I noticed how much heavier the motor was than my Radrunner's. I guess it needs more torque because its not geared. The motor seems quite different, so I'm surprised that C5 is the only parameter that needs changing. I see I have my Radrunner set at 00, which is level 3 startup and otherwise full amps. I guess you mean I should use a setting that divides by 1.4 or more.

I've read that modern motor insulation stands up to heat pretty well. Breakdowns come from overheating the whole motor, which takes time. After riding with the 35A controller, I'd check my Radrunner motor with my hand and an IR thermometer. It would be only a couple of degrees above ambient. With my style of riding, would 35A hurt a Radmission motor?

The Radrunner is noisier with the 35A controller. I think it's because of the electrical wave shape. Would my Radmission also be noisier?

What 25A model from electro bike world would work? Is it quiet? What sinewave model to you use? I had to splice brake signal wires when I raised my handlebars. Soldering such fine stuff can be frustrating, but a couple of years ago I broke down and bought a temperature-controlled iron. Piece of cake!

[DuaneL]

Since it is just a 500w motor I felt safer limiting it  1.25 to be about 1200w (mine is a 30a kt sinewave where the upgrade is 35a) as to noise, mine sounds about the same as stock, I really don't know aything about the 25a upgrade kit other than it is marketed as a Rad power bikes upgrade so it should work. I just got a kt sinewave controller from the kunteng ebike factory store on Aliexpress and a adapter cables for the battery from big game bikes, Electro bike world also has them and adapted that instead of using the upgrade kit, only saved about $50 going that way and does require more work. On my DIY bafang 750w rear hub fatbike I run a identical controller not limited.