35A Upgrade Controller Settings

[ArmyOfPenguins]

Hi all, I'm new to the forum but I've been lurking for awhile.  Anyway, I have a RW4 and I recently installed the upgrade controller to try to get a little more help getting up some of the steeper hills around my hometown.  I am really loving it!  I watched Brett's youtube vid with his settings and used it as a starting point for my own settings which worked nicely.  The manual he links to is very helpful as well, but since I just got my controller, I noticed there has been at least one change made by the manufacturer, the addition of a setting C15 which is not in that manual and which I have found others were also confused by.  I located the manufacturer's website and found an updated manual which I wanted to link here, and I also wanted to note that the manual says the C15 setting is for walking speed.  It lists setting values of 4, 5, and 6 as walking speeds 4kph, 5kph, and 6kpg respectively.  I haven't reviewed the manual for changes other than that but just wanted to share the information with you all.  Here's the link:  http://www.szktdz.com/en/news.php?page=1&&&type=348.  I downloaded the manual "KT-LCDH P eBike Display User Manual_V3.0".  Hope this helps others.  Also, just wanted to note that Brett has C7 set to 0.  I would set it to 1 as it enables cruise control, which I have come to love!  To use the cruise control, you just hold the throttle at the speed you want and hold down the down arrow button on your PAS pad for a couple of seconds. Cruise is cancelled by hitting your brakes, hitting any key on the PAS pad, or pedalling for more than a few seconds.  Hope this helps someone!  Thanks. 

[jjoyce]

this is great!
my display just crapped out today so i am left deciding to replace the display ($100 from rad) vs this upgrade

where'd you get the kit from?
did you do the wood mount or some other strategy?

[ArmyOfPenguins]

I got my kit from Area 13.  To mount it I used a piece of black HDPE 1/4 inch board (called starboard, it's a marine grade plastic) because I had some sitting around and because it won't absorb moisture and it's super easy to work with. 

[JimInPT]

Here's the link:  http://www.szktdz.com/en/news.php?page=1&&&type=348.  I downloaded the manual "KT-LCDH P eBike Display User Manual_V3.0".  Hope this helps others. 

Thanks!  This is great; I was curious about that new setting (which my controller doesn't have) and couldn't find any docs.

[blanconet]

Hey folks

I just got my upgrade controller kit installed today!
Throttle power works great but I'm not getting any PAS, can folks share their controller settings for me to compare with mine? I've got a Radwagon 4

[JimInPT]

Throttle power works great but I'm not getting any PAS, can folks share their controller settings for me to compare with mine? I've got a Radwagon 4

I don't know how much it'll help you, but here are my settings for a 2021 MiniST2.  My current settings are in the "Jim4" column; the earlier tries are just there for reference, as well as those from some other folks.

[Radio Runner]

I don't know how much it'll help you, but here are my settings for a 2021 MiniST2.  My current settings are in the "Jim4" column; the earlier tries are just there for reference, as well as those from some other folks.

I?m curious why the choice of Zero on C5 ?max current? compared to the others?

The others have something other than zero and jim1 started with 10. What?s your experience with that setting?

[JimInPT]

I?m curious why the choice of Zero on C5 ?max current? compared to the others? The others have something other than zero and jim1 started with 10. What?s your experience with that setting? 

It's been quite a while since I did the testing, but as I recall I started with 10 because that's "maximum current value" and doesn't limit the throttle ramp-up.  I don't think C5 limits power output except as the throttle is applied from zero - I still pull around 1600w at max power demand.

IIRC, set to 10 it just leapt off the line very harshly with all the power offered by the new controller, so I tried other settings, and for my MiniST2 ended up with a value of 00 for a relatively soft start with multiple increments before hitting maximum.  For me, that's much better for pulling away on slippery surfaces or from crowded supermarket parking spaces, stoplights etc. where a sudden leap forward might come to grief.  It's up to full power in just 2-3 seconds, so it's not very limiting if I want to scoot away quickly with full throttle.  A setting of 01 is similar, but has 2 rampup speeds rather than 3; some may prefer that.  Settings of 3-10, as I recall, don't have steps, they just apply that fraction of maximum power during rampup.  Hopefully somebody with better recollection will chime in if I'm wrong about the above comments.

Additionally, because of the smallish 20" wheels, the Mini puts more force (same torque, but on a smaller radius) on the road than a Rover for instance, so the effect is magnified.

As usual, YMMV and individual preferences will give the "correct" result with a little experimenting.  That's why I created a new column when my settings were changed, so I could refer back to previous values without guessing.

FYI, my DIM setting of 23" for tire diameter was set after comparing the bike's display against GPS while in cruise-control on level surface - it matches almost perfectly; this value might need to be adjusted for different tires, but I think a setting of 20 is always wrong for accurate speed display.

[handlebar]

I?m curious why the choice of Zero on C5 ?max current? compared to the others? The others have something other than zero and jim1 started with 10. What?s your experience with that setting? 

It's been quite a while since I did the testing, but as I recall I started with 10 because that's "maximum current value" and doesn't limit the throttle ramp-up.  I don't think C5 limits power output except as the throttle is applied from zero - I still pull around 1600w at max power demand.

IIRC, set to 10 it just leapt off the line very harshly with all the power offered by the new controller, so I tried other settings, and for my MiniST2 ended up with a value of 00 for a relatively soft start with multiple increments before hitting maximum.  For me, that's much better for pulling away on slippery surfaces or from crowded supermarket parking spaces, stoplights etc. where a sudden leap forward might come to grief.  It's up to full power in just 2-3 seconds, so it's not very limiting if I want to scoot away quickly with full throttle.  A setting of 01 is similar, but has 2 rampup speeds rather than 3; some may prefer that.  Settings of 3-10, as I recall, don't have steps, they just apply that fraction of maximum power during rampup.  Hopefully somebody with better recollection will chime in if I'm wrong about the above comments.

Additionally, because of the smallish 20" wheels, the Mini puts more force (same torque, but on a smaller radius) on the road than a Rover for instance, so the effect is magnified.

As usual, YMMV and individual preferences will give the "correct" result with a little experimenting.  That's why I created a new column when my settings were changed, so I could refer back to previous values without guessing.

FYI, my DIM setting of 23" for tire diameter was set after comparing the bike's display against GPS while in cruise-control on level surface - it matches almost perfectly; this value might need to be adjusted for different tires, but I think a setting of 20 is always wrong for accurate speed display.

When I got a 35 A controller for my Radrunner, I set C5 to limit current because I didn't want to risk overheating the motor. That meant slow-start wasn't available. Occasionally I'd pop a wheelie getting underway. The reason was obvious. Riding, my center of mass was forward of the seat, but sometimes I'd start out with most of my weight on the seat, which was pretty high and pretty far back. The solution was simply to remember to start out with most of my weight on my feet, one on the ground and the other on a pedal at 6 o'clock.

Both my Radrunner and my Radmission are now set at C5=10, and they get underway fairly gently. I believe that's because I keep P3 at 1, which means the PAS level limits torque. I start out at PAS 0 or 1, then shift up if I want more torque.

Bicycle tires are sized by outside diameter. Rims for the Radrunner and the Mini are called 20" because if they were narrow enough for conventional tires, the outside diameter would be about 20". Since they're made for bigger tires, they should be called 23" rims. According to careful map measurements, with one diameter setting my Radrunner odometer was slightly high and with another it was slightly low. I've measured a local track to the foot. I need to check the odometer on the track.

[ArmyOfPenguins]

Hey folks

I just got my upgrade controller kit installed today!
Throttle power works great but I'm not getting any PAS, can folks share their controller settings for me to compare with mine? I've got a Radwagon 4

I've attached my RW4 settings.  If you are not getting any PAS it is probably your PAS cable.  Try disconnecting and reconnecting it.

[handlebar]

I?m curious why the choice of Zero on C5 ?max current? compared to the others? The others have something other than zero and jim1 started with 10. What?s your experience with that setting? 

FYI, my DIM setting of 23" for tire diameter was set after comparing the bike's display against GPS while in cruise-control on level surface - it matches almost perfectly; this value might need to be adjusted for different tires, but I think a setting of 20 is always wrong for accurate speed display.

I got a good idea of the diameter of a Radrunner tire by measuring from the center of the axle to the ground (radius) and doubling it.

Today I finally tested the odometer, set at 23" like yours, on a track of 1584 feet (exactly 0.3 mile). It's a bumpy track. When I circled about 6 mph, the odometer was very accurate. Then I tried a couple of laps at 10-15 mph, and the odometer read 40% high!

I had a similar experience with my Radmission: dead accurate going slow, but 20% high going faster. On both bikes, it seems that bumps can cause erratic readings of the wheel-revolution sensor.

[JimInPT]

I had a similar experience with my Radmission: dead accurate going slow, but 20% high going faster. On both bikes, it seems that bumps can cause erratic readings of the wheel-revolution sensor.

That's interesting and depressing at the same time.  I haven't done any measurements like that, but I use the OsmAnd+ mapping app (because it has excellent and up-to-date bike trails, even the tiny ones in my neighborhood) to log each ride.  Comparing its trip distance to the bike's odometer, it's pretty close, especially cumulatively over several rides, and I have portions of roads that look bombed-out they're so lumpy.  I'll try to keep your observations in mind to see if I notice any changes.

[coastycaz]

Hey all... so I have a rad wagon 3. I bought the controller and installed it and the throttle and screen craps out after about 5 seconds of riding and it leaves me with an error code 30. Has anyone used this controller upgrade on a rad wagon 3 and if so did you get it to work? I checked all the connections and they are tight, just can't get past this error code and loss of power and screen...